tr7triumph.com

I was given a 1981 TR7 convertible. I saw it's potential and just couldn't bear to think of it going to a junk yard. It ran when it was last parked 10 yrs. ago. Due to being stored outside (rainy Seattle, WA) there is some rust and corrosion. I didn't try to start it, just forcibly jerked it out of it's former resting place and trailered it home to the TriCities. Any suggestions on where to start the restoration process?? My TR7 was bought in Europe but was built with USA specks (former owner was in the service), he did say it had an upgraded transmission because he drove it on the
German autoban (probably spelled it wrong...lol). If I wanted to see if the motor would start, I'm assuming new battery, oil, fluids, etc... anything else that might to be checked before trying to start the engine? Any suggestions would be great!!!

Having replaced the oil and filter you could "start" the engine with the coil lead off to get the oil round and oil pressure up.

Then replace the coil lead and start it (hopefully).

Good luck with the resto.

BTW - I wonder what the guy meant by an upgraded transmission? I can only think he meant he ordered it with the 5 speed gearbox but by 1981 this was a standard fitting, not an optional extra as before.

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I wish I could drive a TR7 like Tony Pond
North Yorks/Lancs border
http://raidertr7.blogspot.com/
TR7 Sprint FHC tarmac rally car - Speke built ... Barnoldswick modified - there's a big difference!!!

If you do manage to get it running take it in to a body shop for a quote to de-rust & respray. Its a bit cheeky but they will have a better eye than you & hopefully it will give you a list of things you wil need to do bodywise. If nothing else they will tell you whether the restoration is a small, medium or insurmountable task.

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To do list:
Upholstery/Motor/Gearbox/Suspension/Brakes/Carb/Tyres../Gearbox/Paint/Cam/Motor rebuild
Done......./done./done....../done......../done../done/done/redone.../soon./soon/under way

Given?? Wow, lucky you!!

Right off the bat if its been outside that long you are probly gonna need a fuel tank. But the first thing I would do is get it up in the air and go over the entire body. Rust can grow from hidden places. Dont be afraid to poke areas with a screwdriver, its better to find any rot now than after you start dumping alot of $$ into it. IF rust seems to be minimal, then I'd move on to the eng/trans/rear. Check particularly around where the rear attaches to the body, as well all the seams where the uni-body was welded together.

Before you try to start it I would take out spark plugs, check them for condition and gap and while you have it out squirt in some 5w or 10w oil in the chambers and turn the engine over to lube the rings. Don't try to suck up the gas in gas tank unlessit has been emptied and refilled. Is it carbs or fuel injected. 1981's were supposed to be fuel injected but it might actually be a 1980 build date. If it is FI you probably want some injector cleaner to free up injectors.

The last TR7's had a 3:45 diff instead of 3:90 so maybe this is what he was talking about.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

What kind of info can I get with the Vin# ? (engine size, transmission, orig. specks, etc...)

I already figured I'd have to remove the shell and get it media blasted that way I know what I'm facing to get the body back in shape. My dad has had 2 old Fords (34 & 37) restored, so I'm assuming that I can learn from some of his first mistakes and use some of his contacts to get my TR7 restored. I already have a body and paint guy lined up, he's willing to let me do as much as I want or am willing to do with his assistance/direction and of course finish up what I can't do-which might be alot...LOL

I've been looking at different topics and have read about upgrading the 4 cyl. to the v8.....any thoughts for or against this? Is it just a matter of power and performance?

Any companies that are best to get parts from and have a catalog (in print format) that I can get my hands on?

I am a couple of hundred miles north of you in Vancouver and picked up a local car that is almost entirely rust-free, so there is some hope!
I agree that the fuel tank will likely be a problem, and if not the old gas will be, so I would get the car running with a fuel line to a gas can. Once you get it running you will be able to properly assess the mechanical condition.
There is nothing wrong with a V8 conversion if done properly. The shell was designed with a V-8 in mind so getting one to fit isn't all that difficult.
As far as catalogs, Moss Motors in California has a catalog with some decent parts diagrams but their parts availability is a bit lacking. The best catalog is from Rimmer Brothers in the UK. It is highly detailed and is a good resource regardless of whether you buy your parts from them or not. Rimmers has a huge inventory and most parts are available from them. Another source is S&S in the UK. Great guys, lots of product but the catalog is not as good as Rimmers. There are other suppliers both in the US and UK but I have had good luck with both of the above. I generally get my orders from Rimmers within 2 weeks, often 1 week so no problem there. They always come well packed with every small part bagged and tagged.

Enjoy your 7!
Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

You have a lot of good advise given so far. My only addition is in regaurd to the V8 conversion. I would strongly recomend that you decide now if you want a V8. If you do, a "real" TR8 would be a better candidate for restoration. Prices on them are really low if they need body & paint work. If you do a complete resto and V8 conversion on this car, you will surely end up with more money in it than buying a TR8 and restoring it. But it will always be a converted 7. Could end up as a gift you can't afford.[:D]

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Rather than go for V8 (it will never be a TR8) I would go for a Buick V6 with Buick 5 speed or auto (plenty of power for both). Cheap, easier to find (here in N/A), more reliabilty, more horsepower, retains the use of your crossmember, light enough you don't need power steering rack, Because it's only three cylinders long, weight shifts to the rear giving a better weight distribution, You can get a complete conversion kit from John's cars so your not running around trying to round up parts, light enough you don't need exotic (expensive) brake upgrade if you don't want. If you want a V8 for originality sake (which you don't get with a converstion anyway)go get a TR8.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Thanks for the input. I don't really care one way or the other if it's a v8 or not. a v8 is more power but also means it sucks down more fuel...lol...and I already drive a gas gulper...I'm in no hurry to create another one. I'm hoping the weather is nice enough tomorrow that I can uncover it and take some pics and pull the vin # off of it. My hubby said he'd help me change the oil/gas/plugs and see if we could start it. If I can't start it, I'll just jerk the engine and take it to my dad's engine guy. The engine looks clean from what I can see. I completely understand the expense of restoration....I've watched my dad do it with his hot rods. I think my largest project will be the body. Surprisingly the interior is complete and in relatively good shape considering the way it was stored the last 10yrs. This is sort of my new hobby....don't know how long it will take, but eventually the ol girl will be on the road again. [:)]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by abushr</i>

What kind of info can I get with the Vin# ? (engine size, transmission, orig. specks, etc...)
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<font color="green">If you look on the TRDrivers web site (http://www.trdrivers.com/tr7___tr8_vin_numbers.htm) you can decode that VIN number which will give you quite lot of basic info about the car as was when it left whichever of the three factories it was built in.</font id="green">

<font color="green">Gordon
GRD 1980 Brooklands Green 2l FHC
OVC 1980 Platinum Silver 3.9l V8 FHC
Bedford, UK.
</font id="green">

Thanks for the website to check out the vin number. It was pretty cool. The only part that didn't make much sense was the check digit in the vin number...I'm still not sure what the purpose of it is. But it was definitely cool to find out where mind was built.
Thanks for the info.

Honestly, I think the 4 cylinder is a sufficient powerplant and long lived if properly taken care of.....and <b>ALOT</b> cheaper on parts.

I plan on converting my '76 to a V6/auto using a John's cars kit. From what I have read, the car does not have to be cut up to do this conversion and if an owner desires, it can be switched back to stock and no one should be able to tell the difference (providing you keep the original parts).
As I have found out, the original owner of my 7 used it for racing (it has suspension mods, a four-point harness installed behind the driver's seat, etc.) so I won't be guilty of 'ruining' a pristine, low mileage example. Not that these cars are bringing 6 figures at Barrett-Jackson auctions anyhow...
Bottom line: it's your car - do with it what you want.

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.