un-storing a TR7

[tedlit]

I've just "inherited" a 1976 TR7.. as far as I know, it's been stored for about eight years, and I figured I'd have a go at getting it running again rather than just selling it on / parting it out.

I've spent a merry couple of days reading the forum, and it sounds like I've got some very common problems.. and I'm interested in people's opinions if I'm going about stuff the right way or not.

Two most obvious things - only the left lights work. Left-side headlamp, markers, and rear lights work perfectly. No right lights at all, no power to any of them. What could take out the entire right-hand side of the car? The dash is completely dead as well (no lights, no movement on any gauges)

Perhaps more importantly.. she won't turn over!
I know it's not seized - the engine turns over freely when pushed / when the crankcase bolt is turned. Oil is clear, no signs of cross-contamination. There's an audible CLICK from behind the glovebox when you turn the key.. I've pulled the cover off the blue relay, and the relay does appear to be clicking in properly. So I'm guessing bad/seized/stuck starter motor.. haven't checked voltage at the motor yet, as I was hoping to at least get it rolling without having to grovel underneath it!

Any opinions much appreciated.

[humanoid]

The first thing I would do is dump the old gas in the gas tank out and get some fresh gasoline in there. IIRC, the right side of the lights are wired to the left, so maybe you have some corroded connections.

_____________________________________________
<h3><b><font color="orange">1980 Inca Yellow TR7 Convertible</font id="orange"></b></h3>

[tedlit]

No gas in tank.. the car was originally laid-up because of a fuel leak somewhere under the car.

I discovered that the r/h headlight was actually on.. while lowered.. didn't think that was possible!

[GRANTDCLARK]

I had the same problem with my right headlight. JCLAY had me check the surround on that light and it was in a bind. Just a matter of pressing the surround away from the matal and this should free the light to come up. Good luck and I know you will enjoy this project.[:)]

[gaz]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tedlit</i>

No gas in tank.. the car was originally laid-up because of a fuel leak somewhere under the car.

I discovered that the r/h headlight was actually on.. while lowered.. didn't think that was possible!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

anything and everything is possible with lights on the TR7

It rides again.....

[Cobber]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tedlit</i>

No gas in tank.. the car was originally laid-up because of a fuel leak somewhere under the car.

I discovered that the r/h headlight was actually on.. while lowered.. didn't think that was possible!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The fuel leak that laid the car up is probably a rusted out tank! That would also explain why it's empty! [:D]
As for the RH headlight problem poor ground, crappy connections, buggered pektron unit (it's an electronic control unit for the headlights) and on and on the list goes, I suggest you have a good search on here and in the archives too, so as you can find out how to sort the headlights once and for all time. I posted quite a bit about it about 2 years ago and more recently others have too!

Best of luck and I hope you enjoy your TR

80'Triumph TR7, 74'Jaguar XJ12 , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100
I sold the '61 International AA120 to a mate.. he hasn't paid for it yet!
The Volvo 760 and one of the alfa 90's have passed on RIP! (Rust in Pieces!)

[MickeyR]

Wonderful article specific to MG's (sorry!), but applicable for all:

http://theautoist.com/awakening_a_sleeping_b.htm

Mickey

[saabfast]

tedlit, from my experience the lack of side (marker) lights is often the fuse contacts needing cleaning (and probably not related to the headlights which generally have problems of their own). I generally have to clean the fuses each year when I get the car out of hibenation for the summer.
I had similar problems with the starter when the small spade connection was corroded inside the wire, looked OK and would sometimes start with a wiggle. When I took the connector off the wire was completely green inside. Trimmed back and fitted a new connector and no trouble for 2 years now.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

[FI Spyder]

Your biggest problem is going to be corroded electrical connections. Get a wiring diagram for your car (destination and year.) Trace and find the connections of the offending circuits. Don't forget the plug that the starter relay plug into, (I did and that simple thing prevented my starter from turning over the engine.) My car was stored for 7 years and there where a few electrical issues that had to be addressed. Temp holder for gas will get the engine started. After you have assured yourself the enine runs with no expensive sounding noises you'll want a new gas tank if the old one was leaking.

At this point you would want to clean all electrical connections to get rid of any hidden or future electrical gremlins. If the car resided in a hot climate the rubber parts may have deteriorated to the point where most may have to be replaced. Mine was but the up side to this was a rust free car and it gave me an opportunity to replace the rubber suspension parts with poly.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Debpazvin]

I have found that my pods go up an down when they feel like it. Nothing wrong apparently????. If she won't lift her right pod, I do it manually then normally she'll do it herself next time. No logic involved, Im just getting used to it.
Deb x

1980 Premium TR7-1 of 400 made.

[tedlit]

Thanks for all the replies people - very useful

I've taken apart and cleaned most of the obvious electrical connections.. fuses, relays, and so on.. the one thing I'm not sure about is the black connection block that the +ve lead from the battery goes to. It all feels very loose.. despite the fact that all the spades are now shiny..!

I've got a wiring diagram - that's what led me to the starter relay in the first place - but that *appears* OK, so my money's on a bad connection to the starter itself. I'm *told* it started and ran under its own steam two years ago.. but it's been stored outside for at least ten.

Going to get the car up on the ramps tomorrow. Given the general layer of green moss on the outside of the car, I'm mostly dreading what I'll find underneath it.

[tedlit]

Well.. got it up in the air.. looks surprisingly good underneath, except that someone's obviously jacked it by the floorpan at some point in the past.

Trying to get it to turn over.. I've bypassed the starter relay, checked the voltage from the battery (the really thick wire), and it looks good. If I apply +12v to the larger spade connector, I get a whining sound from the starter (like something turning over very slowly)), but the engine doesn't actually turn. It doesn't sound like anything's engaging - there's no 'click' from the starter itself.

Does this sound like a bad starter to anyone?

[FI Spyder]

Could well be the starter connections. Don't forget your ground circuit connections. The electricity has to go from battery to starter ending back up to the negative terminal to complete the circuit. Any corrosion or loose connections will stop the starter from getting full shot.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[tedlit]

Any tips for removing the starter? It looks like I need to drop the exhaust to do it.. which may end up being a job in itself.. but aside from that, it doesn't look too complicated to remove.

[FI Spyder]

I don't know about a '76 but my California '80 with it's big ass converter was a pain in the butt. (no pun intended). Not compex but to remove two of the three nuts on the down pipe was tight needing a short socket and a universal joint to make the bends the limited access afforded. Using two or better three washers on the worst one made reinstalling easier. Didn't help with the heat shield around the starter taking up extra space.

Yours should be easier.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra