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Fuel Tank - Removal and Replacement

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Wayne S
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Fuel Tank - Removal and Replacement

Postby Wayne S » 08 Sep 2008 12:49

The V8 missed the Lakes Tour this weekend due to this endless stream of brown sludge fouling up the filter and pump. Luckily I had the trusty 2 litre to save the day!

So im going to have the tank out and replace as draining doesnt seem to be helping.

Does anyone have a step by step experience of how they did it and any idea of what I need to watch out for. Does the whole axle need to drop out or can I slide it out one side perhaps?

Share your experiences...

Purple 2.0 Litre DHC Grinnall
Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)
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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 08 Sep 2008 16:22

I didn't remove the rear axle but removed the upper links and disconnected the shox to drop the axle as far as I could to make room. You may have to remove the exhaust as well, I was lucky that my S&S single pipe didn't foul things too much and I kept it there. A bit fiddly though.

Be prepared for seized nuts on the tank retaining straps. With the tank out have a good look round for corrosion and treat it while you can still see it. Also have a look at where the lower links join the chassis, many 7's have had the bottom of the rear passenger bulkhead crack with age and a lusty V8. Thin metal and all that torque doesn't mix well.

The filler cap area on the rear deck might need looking at as well if it doesn't drain properly. You're removing the filler neck to get the tank out so have a look. Otherwise it's fairly standard Haynes manual stuff. You could rust proof the outside of the tank as well but in 25 years time it'll probably be rusting from the inside.

Good Luck,


Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & Solid Bushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Green Stuff, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AllyCat 5 Spokes. No Door Stickers.

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