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Connecting rod nuts

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laskaboots
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Connecting rod nuts

Postby laskaboots » 25 Jul 2008 20:41

Doing an engine rebuild on my '77 FHC. Very little wear considering the 75k miles, although I have bought new bearings, timing chain guides, and the usual seals. My Hanes manual says to reassemble the
connecting rods with new nuts. I have never needed to do this with
other engines, local parts stores say they have never either except if obviously damaged. They do spin on with very little resistance, is this a sign that a little interference tightness would be better?
-thanks all.

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 25 Jul 2008 21:20

I would clean and degrease bolts and nuts - and fit with Loctite!

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laskaboots
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Postby laskaboots » 25 Jul 2008 21:33

that's kinda what I was thinking, unless I hear a definite reason, i.e. someone HAS had a problem with reusing the original nuts. -thanks

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Postby Underdog » 25 Jul 2008 21:44

I've done quite a few engines (no TR7s though) and never heard that. The bolts actually stretch a bit and the tension keeps things tight. Unless TR7s use some sort of self locking nut?? Be real carefull with the locktight. You wouldn't want any excess finding its way down to the brg.

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Postby Cobber » 26 Jul 2008 02:53

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2">People always use too much loctite.
Even pros, late last year one of the blokes (The forman, he should have known better)used way too much loctite and the wrong grade too.
I had him helping me with the project I was doing, he had assembled some very expensive high speed bearings and laybrinth seals into the sheave blocks of a wire drawing machine. The exess loctite ouzed in to the bearings and laybrinth seals resulting in the machine siezing up during the commisioning production tests. It took 6 weeks to sort out as the whole machine had to be pulled apart bearing and seals flown out fron Italy and we had to turn up a new shaft and some other parts for the machine in the lathe. I shudder to think what it all cost in total. ( We hid a lot of the costs in the general maintenece budget so as not to scare the bean counters too much!)
I hope this gives you some insight into the dangers of using too much Loctite! That is not to say that Loctite is bad, It's an extreemly good product.
I don't use the liquid type loctite any more they have a solid type out now it comes in small lipsticks. Like a lipstick all you do is take off the cap twist the knob at the base and the solid product comes out of the tube, you just rub it lightly on the area yod need it. No mess, no bottle of loctite leaking in your tool box, no loctite running into places it shouldn't, no spills or drips. Brilliant! It comes in about 9 differnt grades so you should be able to get the right match for the job! </font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 26 Jul 2008 18:43

Yes - the little tubes are great!

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laskaboots
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Postby laskaboots » 05 Aug 2008 18:52

Just to update. Talked to some more auto parts people, and they said if the manual recomends new nuts, better be safe and use new.
Oh...and my original post, I meant "Haynes" manual, as my Jockies don't talk to me much any more. So I ordered a set of 8 rod nuts from Vicktoria British, and when the box arrived yesterday, I found 8 locking straps and a $15.95 (USD) refund. Correct part numbers and description of "Connecting Rod Nuts". This must be the solution to prevent them from comming loose, but I only need 4 straps, not 8.
I will call them and ask, but not to complain. If it's a good fix and costs less and I feel confident that they will hold, then I am happy.

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Postby bmcecosse » 06 Aug 2008 13:01

They obviously know the engine well then - 8 locking straps for 4 conn rods. You couldn't make it up! Trouble with lock straps is - they are soft metal and in use they will 'work' under the nuts and effectively make them loose! Ok they won't unscrew because the lock tab holds them - but they won't be clamping the rod as they should.
As before - I would re-use the old nuts with some loctite.

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