tr7triumph.com

I'm going to look at a TR8 tomorrow. Anything in particular I need to pay attention to?

I have owned several Triumphs in the past and have a TR6 now so I have a good idea where the rust hides and the normal things, but this is my first look at a Wedge.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ryce

Rear floor where the rear suspension fixes on (as well as general sills etc condition) - and fuel tank. And can you afford the heavy fuel consumption ok ?

how heavy of fuel comsumption are we talking about???


Ryce

You'll get less than 250 miles from a tank.

That is quite acceptable.

Any other things to watch out for besides the rear suspension connection?


Ryce

Sure there are lots of things to look at. But, it would be a little pointless to run through them all without a little history on the car. Where it is in the country? miles on it? Type of storage, etc. A 10,000 mile car in Pheonix would have different issues than a 80,000 mile car in Boston, not trying to be offensive, but, more information would get a better response. It's not like people are standing in line to buy one of these, so, more information would be nice.

TR8

It is a North Carolina car that has been stored inside for the last 10 years or so. It has an aftermarket carb, and approximately 60k miles on it. I have not yet seen it, but will be doing so tomorrow.

My apoligies for the minimal information, but I have not yet had an opportunity to review the car. I was trying to get a feel for the unique issues that are associated with the Wedge.

thanks.

Ryce

for some basic tips on what to look for, take a look at the buyers guide

http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/tr7info/buyguide.asp




Ron.

250 miles - but it's a BIG fuel tank. If you drive it hard - would be likely/lucky to get 15/20 mpg.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> If you drive it hard - would be likely/lucky to get 15/20 mpg.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> MPUKG or MPUSG..? [;)]

That doesn't sound too bad. NC is high humidity though. I'm assuming it's pretty stock other than a carb and intake change.

1. I check for rust under the clutch master cylinder between the fire wall and the wheel well joint.

2. The lower rear suspension attachment point on the body, lift the carpet and look at the bracket the seat is on where it meets the rear bulkhead, you don't want to see cracks in the paint or metal.

3. Check the front strut towers also, sometimes they pull away from the fender

4. Look at the K-member, you don't want to see a lot of damage there or the frame rails.

5. The engine should idle very smooth. If it doesn't plan on a cam change, the average mileage for a flat cam is around 60,000, but, mine was flat on one lobe and I had 6 dished lifters at 42,000.

6. If the transmission sounds a little noisy while driving , lift the shift lever straight up, it if moves an inch or so and the noise goes away, the shifter rail bushings are shot.

7. Look for any signs of the gas tank leaking, then have a tendency to rust out.

8. Check every electrical device on the car, they are not hard to fix but, can be time consuming, especially the cooling fans. Most people have a problem getting them right after changing the intake.

9. Power steering racks have a tendency to leak, might want to check that.

10. Check the brake and clutch fluid, if it's not clear looking figure on a complete rebuild of that system, most of these cars have non function rear brakes by now if not properly maintained.

11. Remove the oil cap and look inside the engine, it should be really clean in there with just a touch of golden color if the engine has been properly maintained.

If you end up buying it you should come back here for some "what should I do first" advise But, have about $2000 with you, when you do....well, at least $1200

TR8