Headlamps don't go all the way up - or down!

[strangerover]

Hi guys, my first message!
Can anyone advise please. When activating the headlamps, the right hand pod goes nearly all the way up, whilst the left hand pod goes up a just a third of the way. I have to jump out and pull them up the rest of the way. There is very litle tension when I do this (and no noise, they are happy to be moved manually) and then they stay up. Also when turning off the headlamps, they don't go all the way down, plus there is continual clicking from the relay in the glovebox, and I think the battery would end up flat if not manually pushed down. I guess this is a common known problem (I am new to running a TR7), is there an easy cure?[?]
Regards,
Trevor
Y reg Gold 1982 TR7 V8 convertible

[Red]

I had that exact problem once - All that was needed was to remove the unit, clean up all the electrics and grease the mechanical parts. Worked fine after that.
It sounds like a fair bit of work, but I had mine out, cleaned up and refitted in less than an hour.

You have to remember, these things sit in one of the most hostile areas of the car - it's not surprising they get a little jammed up now and then!

BTW, welcome to the forum, and TR7 ownership in general!


Garry

1976 2.0 (soon to be 3.5!)FHC
http://reds-tr7.blogspot.com/

[TR Tony]

Hi Trevor & welcome to the forum.

TR7 headlamps - ah, what a wonderful system. The workings of the lift mechanism is actually quite sophisticated for it's time, & is also prone to problems especially after all these years. Like Garry says, the lift mechanisms are exposed to the weather, so raise the lamps, then pull the battery negative terminal which will extinguish the lights but leave them in the up position. From underneath, apply some spray grease to the exposed parts of the mechanism.

Under the bonnet, behind each headlamp, disconnect the 3 wire plugs & clean the connectors. Some spray cleaner is useful as it is difficult to clean the plug prongs. Also undo & clean the earth connection on each side, bolted to the panel behind the lamps. Use some dielectric grease to protect & then reconnect all this.

In the glovebox take off the fusebox cover. You will see some relays around the edge of the fuseboard. From memory, on a late car the top left & top right relays are the headlamp run/stop relays, one for each side. This is probably what you can hear clicking. Try to clean the connections to these relays (a bit fiddly), & make sure the wiring is securely attached.

Once you have reconnected everything, reattached your battery negative lead. Hopefully your lamps will now work properly! If you are still having problems let us know - in fact let us know either way!

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

[strangerover]

Hi guys,
Thanks for the quick responses. [:)]I will have a pop at this tomorrow, it needs an MoT this week, hate to think it would fail just on headlamps, although as its safety related I sure it would!
This is a great site, I took advice from a forum member's previous post about the indicator flasher unit and now the indicators work even with the brake pedal pressed down with a £10 relay from Halfords!
Trevor

[Rayjones]

Trevor,

You can pass an MOT with the headlamps in the raised position, there are two connectors for each headlamp unit inside the front of the engine compartment behind the units. One is the supply to the bulbs, the other is for the lift motor, disconnect the motor one. You can wind the headlamps up manually with a knob underneath the unit, if you ever do this make sure the motor connectors are disconnected.


Ray

1980 UK BRG 2L DHC

[bmcecosse]

For MOT it really is best to just raise the lights - and then take the wires off the motors and leave them fixed UP. No worries about alignment then. Be aware that the motors and mechanism on these lights are quite strong - and have been known to chop off a finger!! In other words - keep your fingers well clear unless you have disconnected the power - even then - there are strong springs in there - you have been warned!

[strangerover]

[:D]
That made me laugh out loud, yes I know they are strong, had an argument with one of the manual winders earlier this evening, which activated as I tried to turn it (the relay went live as my young help flashed the lamps inside the car...)[V]
Thanks, great advice guys, if I cant fix them I simply turn up at the MoT with them up and with the motors temporarily disconnected!
I will let you know if it passes, it really is exceptionally clean, I paid £1,900 for her at RTS auctions (Norwich) last year, and it had a decent plate too!
Trevor
POP30Y Gold Y reg V8 convertible

[TR Tony]

Yes that should work for MOT purposes, Trevor. The circuits that turn the lamps on & off, & the raise/lower circuits are separate parts of the same system, so you can leave them up & still turn the lights on & off.

Let us know how you get on.



Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue - very original & not rusty!
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Regency Red - on the road again.</font id="size1">

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Sounds like your contacts on the contact strip are out of adjustment. It is the limit switch which regulates where the motors quit.

[strangerover]

Hi all,
Tony you asked how I got on. Well, none of my classics are straightforward, so I was not expecting the TR7 V8 to be! One hour before the test, I went to disconnect the headlamp motors and found the battery flat, TOTALLY!! Not enough time to charge it up, I took the battery off a Range Rover (same polarity and size), and fitted it. Headlamps now permanently up as recommended. Great... Final check on the rear end, horror![:0] No number plate lights. A previous owner had disconnected the wiring, as it was shorting out. I quickly ran a live to the rear lamp cluster and bingo, all was well.
IT PASSED!! [:D]The TR7 was the best he'd seen for a while (probably the only one...), one happy owner.
Then tried to get it taxed and the Post Office told me my Footman James insurance was invalid. The certificate stated it started on 31.3.2009 and ended in 2010. A quick phone call later and it was sorted.
Thanks for all your advise chaps, when the weather gets warmer I'll sort out the headlamp motors.
Trevor
Gold TR7 V8 Convertible POP30Y