tr7triumph.com

After what seems like years the decision has to been made to
recondition the BMW sourced ZF auto in the 8, rather than fit a
Toyota Supra 5 speed in its place. I have it booked it in for tuesday
morning.

I therefore fitted a good, fully charged battery & went through the
procedure, until I got to the bit where the starter motor should get
involved. Nothing.

The last time this happened it was a flat battery in the fob, not
turning the immobiliser off. No the little light was off. As the
thing has only been run every couple of weeks for some time, I
assumed dirty connection.

Being a complete ignoramus when it comes to things electrical, &
many other things, my wife would say, I cleaned every connection I
could think of, but still nothing. I was now at a complete loss,
until I remembered an alternator, which had to be convinced I was
serious about requiring it to work, by getting a belt with a hammer,
from time to time.

A couple of belts, well taps realy, with the end of a 3 Ft lump of
2x1, had the starter suitably cowered, & the engine running happily.
But will it go, tomorrow?

So, what I want one of you clever people to do, is tell me what I
have done. What part of the starter motor of a late 4.6 Range Rover
engine, would respond to my belting it? What should I plan to have
fixed, before it leaves me stuck somewhere?

Hasbeen

Hi Hasbeen

It sounds like it could be the solenoid, I certainly like the temporary fix though. I have looked through all my specialist parts for Triumphs but cannot find a piece of timber 3feet long and 2"x1" in profile. Have you possibly got the part number!! [:D]

Hioe the car goes well after the work on Tuesday.

Cheers....Gary

Eeyore rides again !!

EOR14W - Persian Aqua 2L Dhc, Now rebuilt and looking lovely - Sprint engine being prepared!

I think that you will find that under a Lucas number![:D]

1975 TR7 ACL764U

Almost a certainty that it is the starter solenoid. Might keep going for a while, but is undependable, for sure. We used to take it apart and turn the contact point 180 degrees to use the other "rivet" as a contact point. The cause of intermittent failure is that the contact point tends to get burned away due to arcing. That is why a tap (a wrench is as good as a chunk of lumber) will "adjust" the contact a bit, albeit often for that occasion only.

Better solution is to replace the solenoid or get a rebuilt starter, usually equal in price these days. Although you might travel around with the lumber at hand to be used for those bad starts - at least unti the solenoid quits for good.

Launie

Mine started having the dead key fear. Most of the time, everything was fine, but then you would turn it and nothing would happen. Then I got to where things were not happening more than they were happening.

It was a rebuilt starter that I had installed last summer when I had the transmission out. I put the original starter back in and have had no problems ever since.

I would go with the smaller high torque units and probably be done with the problem.

Have fun, drive fast & safe, be kewl,

jclay

I went the gear reduction unit route on mine after a couple of emergency push starts were required. The one I bought came with a shim kit. I found that it required one of the shims to keep the drive gear from dragging on the ring gear. Works great & sounds kinda neat on crankover.

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.