tr7triumph.com

Anyone have any top tips for tightening the top suspension/shock absorber nut (the one on in the centre of the turret).

It was a bugger to get off but now everything is back together it's proving to be a right mare!

I'm happy that my springs are as compressed as possible and I'm also aware of a mythical BL tool which is mentioned in the service manual.

At the moment, everything else is reassembled and back on the car, short of loosening the compressors and putting the wheel back on. The nut in question is currently located on the top of the damper where it should be. I can't get it tightened; it just spins. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Cheese? Really? How on earth does it look like a block of cheese?

IIRC there's a dished washer at the top of the damper which engages against a flat in the damper shaft.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006141

The washer has a notch in it on both sides. In the Rimmer diagram its ULC2435. Tighten the nut whilst holding the dished washer firm IIRC.

Adam




TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

Everything is there including the part you mention. Thats the exact part that I cant hold or tighten: the one that's giving me the problems

How do you stop that part from spinning?


Cheese? Really? How on earth does it look like a block of cheese?

I suspect there is a special tool that engages the slots in the cupped washer, but I was able to hold it using a large pair of channel lock pliers. Easier if you can get someone to hold the pliers while you torque the nut.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

Yep, got the tee shirt.

I've never bothered to look into why, but I have found that nut is easy to loosen with a rattle gun, or even a big ring spanner tapped with a hammer, WHILE THE STRUT IS STILL FIRMLY BOLTED IN PLACE IN THE CAR. I always start the nut, & undo it a couple of turns before doing anything else.

In the same way, it is easier to do the final tightening, after the strut is fully bolted into place

Next time I do one, & the 8 is due for new shocks, I must have a look to find out why it works.

Hasbeen

If nothing else, just having the top plate firmly held in place makes one less part that you have to hang on to.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

Hi,

As with most if not all suspension parts tighten whilst fitted to the car, weight settled and straight ahead. Not a huge torque figure involved and I use the ' grip the washer ' method.

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC BEAUTY FITTED WITH OVERDRIVE GEARBOX

1979 3.5 FHC CURRENTLY GARDEN ART !

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by darrellw</i>

I suspect there is a special tool that engages the slots in the cupped washer<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">There is, the BL Repair Operations Manual mentions an RTR360. It also has a picture of it at the back. It seems someone has uploaded the TR8 version that has the details:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/61981233/Tr8-Rom-Manual

On mine the dished washers / cup have 2 slots cut in them directly opposite each other.

I took a large screwdiver and bent it about so it could engage both slots whilst not touching the central shaft. That kept it in place whilst tightening the central nut.

You might be able to make a tool to do the same job - adapt a piece of tube as a box spanner with two flat prongs, or cut down a piece of steel angle?

Did just that.Tube fits over washer with two tabs welded inside it to pick up the slots,handle welded on, takes no effort and causes no hysteria or damage,took minutes to make and better still cost nothing.Steve..

]
mine
[/URL]

use a rattle gun, it's a lot easier

"Do or Do not, there is no try" - Yoda

1981 Purple Grinnal 2.0L
1980 TR7 Persian Aqua Drophead.
1977 TR7 FHC Tahiti Blue

Thanks for all the help. It eventually came down to borrowing a mates snap-on rattle gun.
All sorted now


Cheese? Really? How on earth does it look like a block of cheese?

That is great to hear that you have sorted it now. I personally used the method that Hasbeen mentioned and did up before and then tightened when they are all bolted to the body. For me, this seemed to work and they didn't spin around as I tightened.

Install the bellows but don't fasten the top of the bellows. Use a spring compressor to compress the spring. Slide the spring into place and install the spring top, washer and start the nut. Take a shop cloth and wrap it around the shock upper shaft just under the spring top. Use a pair of vice grips and slip them into the open area and close them on the shock shaft with the shop cloth in the jaws. Tighten the nut on the top and remove the vice grips and shop cloth. The shaft should be unmarked. Slide the bellows into position on the spring top. Use a tie wrap to hold the bellows into place.

Install the strut at the bottom of the wheel hub. Use a jack to raise the wheel hub into place while alining the three studs with the holes in the body. Install the washers and nuts onto the studs and tighten them up. Release the spring clamps.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],