tr7triumph.com

Today I went to put the front suspension back on the car, but it later turned into a bit of a pain. I got the struts on and then the got the track arms. However, the anti roll bar will not go into the track arms, there is around a two inch difference in the arm to the hole.

I took the arms of and tried to fit the bar, but no good. the bar is now not connected to the subframe, but I think I need to do this as if it does go in the bar will not fir.

So now I have a hand compressor and aim to fit the anti roll bar on to the subframe, then compress the two ends of the anti roll bar together to fit into the of track arms.

Can anyone give any advice?

Phil, anything that will pull the ends in will do.

I use a Spanish windless system when doing mine, simply because I like using old, simple techniques when I can. We also use them, with wire, as a permanent support for fence corner post systems.

If you don't know what that is Google it, their descriptions are better than I could do.

You do have to be careful, as there gets to be a lot of pressure on the leaver, [or screwdriver in my case], & it could be dangerous if let lose.

Any little come-along type tool that will pull the ends together will do. I put a hose clip tight around the thing, so the rope dose not slide down the arms when pulling them.

Have fun.

Hasbeen

It does need some manipulation to get it back on. A ratchet tie-down usually provides enough leverage.

I think it is easier to fit it to the lower control arms first, as there is more length to bend, then use the puller to manoeuvre it to attach it to the subframe.

TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI

The alternative I used was to release the lower control arm from the chassis one side, bolt the ARB in and then reconnect the LCA. Its only one bolt and goes back easily as its only the angle of the ARB that makes it difficult to fit.

Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

It is almost impossible if the front suspension is at full drop. I jack up the suspension and the ends can then be fitted fairly easily.

First time I did it I had no problems and wondered what everybody was talking about. Second time I did it had same problem and did it Saabfast's way.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Phil,

Have you got the ARB bolted on at the front of the subframe (with or without the anti dive spacers)?
I have always found it easier to have the front end hanging down loose and the two ends will go through the holes in the horizontal links (again disconnected from the suspension legs) without too much bother.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC KDU 315V Poseidon Greens USA car that never crossed the pond.
Triumph Courier
Triumph owner for 32 years

Get a cheap ratchet winch. Insert one side of the bar into position. Hook the other end of the bar with the ratchet hook. Attach the ratchet end somewhere on the opposite side on the subframe. Ratchet the lose end into place. It's pretty easy.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

See photo at bottom of this page.

http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Triumph_TR-7.html#45

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Guys,

This worked for me some time back as I didn't have any straps to pull the ends of the anti roll bar together. It involved a lot of scrabbling around on the ground but if you don't have a 2 post lift I find that's true of almost all work on a wedge.

The anti roll bar fits into the track control arms if the weight of the car is on its front suspension. If not the holes in the tca's are about 2 inches too close together as the tca's hang down, as per the previous posts.

Assuming that all the front suspension is in place including the wheels but not the anti roll bar, remove the axle stands and let the car's front wheel's on to the ground. Insert the arb in to the tca's with bushes in the correct places. It will fit straight into the respective holes. Tighten the retaining nut and cup washer at either end of the arb but not fully. The centre of the arb will now be dangling well below the subframe.

Using the scissor jack from the boot or your trolley jack if it's low enough (mine isn't) place it under the centre of the arb and jack up the arb to the subframe until you can slide the mounting bolts into place with the saddle clamps and anti dive spacers if fitted. If they don't slide in straightaway you might have to push the front wheels back to enable some front to back movement of the tca's by a few millimetres. Tighten the mounting bolts but not fully.

Lower the car to the ground and with the full weight of the car on its wheels torque up all the bolts. It worked for me. There's very little room under the front of a wedge, especially a slightly lowered one...........Hope this helps.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

Hi guys, thank you so much for the words of advice it was all a good help and thanks for the pic too. That is what I ended up doing in the end and it looks like we have the same winch.

To tell you the truth, I didn't think of putting the car on the floor to and I read this post a bit too late, but thinking about it, it does make sense.

Got the bar in all OK and then had issues getting the bolts into the tra's/ In the end they went in, but it was a bit of a job. All is back now though. Got the wheels on and now all sounds good. The steering is a little lighter too so the roller bearings wre good to fit

Thanks for all the words guys, it sure helped.

Don't forget to re-torque the bolts holding the lower arms to the body with the car on the ground.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

I did a little write up on this subject in my weblog ...
http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2013/07/10cr-preparations-part-2.html

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Blog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Thank you guys for the help and the words of wisdom. It is all back on now, but there was a bit of a trouble doing it. Think I will not do it again for a bit

On the good side the steering is slightly lighter now that I have put the new roller bearings on.