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I am just about to refit my refurbished sunroof (I don't think it's a Webasto, but I can't think what it's called at the moment

Do any of you know how I can seal the metal frame to the roof of the car? I have just had a full respray and obviously don't want to use anything that will react with the paint. Is a silicone sealant okay? The roof was sealed with some of that stuff that looks like putty on a roll, but I don't want to buy a whole roll for just 3 metres of the stuff. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time.

Mac, the best thing to use is a urethane sealer/adhesive for these jobs.

If you wish to use silicone the trick is to just do the fasteners up finger tight for a few days, until the stuff has fully cured, then tighten the screws, so you are compressing the silicone, using it as a gasket. It is not reliable as an adhesive, & will normally leak, after a while.

A mate of mine builds "horse trucks". Trucks to transport up to 9 horses for racing & show stables. They are paneled with colour bond 1.5mm steel sheating, & the entire roof, & body are glued together & to the frame, with a urethane sealer/adhesive called Sikaflex [spelling]. These things have NO, I reppeat, NO fasteners at all.

The panels are held to the frame, & to each other just with urethane, & have no screws, rivets, or bolts, & he's been doing it for years. Frightens the daylights out of me, but it works.

They simply run a bead, place the panel, & compress the stuff, until some sqeeses out. In some areas its clamped over night, then the excess is trimmed the next day. It really works.

Hasbeen

Thanks, Hasbeen, that's a job I'll be cracking on with soon.

Cheers

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time.

I don't believe it - it's about an inch too short (that's 25 mm plus a bit for you metric people - only kidding, if you know the TR7 you know imperial!!).

I'm hoping it will stretch when the building warms up but it will have to stretch a lot. "Quite frankly, Harry, I'm not HP'd". Come on, you must remember the advert!!!

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time.

They usually stretch but it needs to be warm or the vinyl will split near the back.

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TR8 FHC
TR7 Sprint

When I got mine back I also thought that it was too small as the catch did not want to go in, so I could turn the handle and close it shout. This worried me after how much I had paid toy get it done.

However, on a nice work weekend I was able to stretch it and make it fit and now it is a nice tight fit. Just do it in stages (bit by bit) to be sure.

Hi there,

Your sunroof looks to be the Edrose which was used on some Speke built cars and (all I think) of the later built cars.

Like you, when I had it redone by an old school trimmer he made it very tight and I complained.

That was ten (10) years ago and I am now pleased he did it this way and agree with the rationale he gave at the time.

It is now easy to close, yet it still does not leak, being still tight down the edges.

The first few years it took muscle power to close properly... but I don't mind this given that I expect the vinyl to last at least another five (5) years.

Owen

hi a couple of questions for you guys :

my tr7 has what i believe to be an edrose sun roof
1) does the webasto roof of the same vintage fit?
2)does anyboby re-cover the original edrose?
thanks for any help you can give

Stewart

Something I have looked at too.

The steel Roof panel has only one part number (WKC199 / WKC 199) so clearly Edrose and Webasto fit the same hole. Maybe Webasto and Edrose are just a name change as one company purchased another?

The issue with re-covering them appears to be the welded seams you see across the exterior. All upholsterers in this small country can only stitch the seam. I would like to hear of someone who can provide a welded replacement.

Jolyon

Jolyon,

I have not ever seen the original welded seam replecement over in the UK, always stitch version.

Also agree the two type fit into the factory frame, the only ones that don't were in the pre production sunroof, which were 3/4 size and fitted at the dealership.


Jim

My 81 FHC has the standard factory fitted Edrose type sunroof.

I have noticed that the roof "lifts" a little when driving at even at fairly moderate speed, & going a little faster makes it lift to the point that I can daylight at the edges. This gap appears roughly half way along the edge of the roof, just a couple of inches.

Do they all do this? Or is something not right with mine? I have checked all the fastenings I can find, both with the roof closed & open.

Tony

1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow

Maybe the cords in the edges have snapped?


1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng

It should be tight Tony, even at speed. I agree with Beans diagnosis. There's a trimmer around the corner from me who could sort it. They are easy to remove and put back in.

TR7 Sprint SJW550S
TR7 Automatic

On my old roof there was a gap like this, to tell you the truth there were gaps all over the place, due to the fact that it needed changing. However, when I got a new one from a company in London called Coach Builder (or something like that), the gap went. Yes there is a little (very little) play on the sides, but nothing like what you appear to have. For this reason I would say that it is not normal and would need looking at. You do not want to be going down the moterway at 100mph and have the rain coming in

I have known cases where the height of the sunroof has been raised slightly to avoid the sunroof marking the steel roof of the car.

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