Failed Starter Relay (UKC7219) I think

[Marsu]

Today the car wouldn't start, only making a clicking noise from the fusebox/relay area when the key was turned. [:(]

I assume the Starter Relay (UKC7219, blue in colour) has failed as cleaning the plug connections made no difference.

Has anyone else had this experience?

Is there anything else I should do/check before ordering a replacement?

Rimmer's picture of the new replacement part looks different. Does anyone know if I am likely to encounter any problems in fitting this?

Is it worth trying a second hand part?

Responses will be gratefully recieved.

[busheytrader]

Does that include cleaning the plug connections at the rear of the engine bay?

I had the same when mine furred up and wouldn't let enough current through. A quick clean and all was well. Follow the wires back from the solenoid if you haven't come across it yet.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

[Beans]

Had that happen before.
First check all the relevant connections for current before ordering a new one.

If the starter relay is broken, it is fairly easy to start the car with a short piece of wire with two connectors.
With this you can bridge the relay, thus starting the engine.

Of course remove one end of the wire as soon as the engines running.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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[andyf]

I`ve had it twice. The first time was the relay, which was bypassed in the way Beans described. The second time I was annoyed that my new relay had only lasted a few months. Bridging it made no difference. Finding out that the spade connector was loose on the back of the starter did. [:I]

Worth checking the obvious first.


1980 Persian Aqua DHC

[FI Spyder]

I had it and after cleaning all connections I replaced the starter with modern gear reduction one. Still just clicked. It was the connector block to the starter relay. I had cleaned it the previous year when I had the dash apart so didn't double check it. I sprayed it with connector cleaner and plugged it on a off the relay a few times and that fixed it and problem never came back.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[FI Spyder]

There are relays out there that don't look like original, British Parts Northwest has one for about $14 that I got in case I need one in future or for testing purposes.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Gubi]

When mine was doing this the relay was fine but the starter solenoid had kicked the bucket.

IIRC the starter relay on mine has been replaced with just a standard Bosch square relay ($5). Looks like it was just a straight drop-in for the round blue one.



-----
Tom
'79 TR7
'87 Alfa 75
'91 Alfa Spider

[saabfast]

When I got my 7 the starter relay was duff, started with a screwdriver across the starter terminals (with ignition on of course). Then found that, with the top off the relay it could be manually started by pinching the contacts together. Lived like this with the relay dangling for easy access for a while until it was replaced when I got the car back on the road. Then when it started working intermittently again I found that the wire into the small spade terminal on the atarter was pretty rotten, all green inside and hardly any contact. Cut an inch off the wire and fitted a new spade and its been fine (for starting anyway) ever since.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

[Gubi]

Just to clarify my earlier post, I had that Bosch replacement starter relay out this weekend when I was doing some testing. It's a dual-87 output relay, not the more common one with 87 and 87a outputs. This is important because it needs the dual outputs to drive both the starter and the direct voltage to the coil during starting.

-----
Tom
'79 TR7
'87 Alfa 75
'91 Alfa Spider

[windy one]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by andyf</i>

that the spade connector was loose on the back of the starter did. Worth checking the obvious first.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

+1 ! When I had the problem first thing I replaced was the relay. Still no start. [:(] Next, Off came the exhaust and out came the starter. Rebuilt the starter and installed a new starter solenoid. Put it all back togethr...."click". [:(!]
While checking over all the wiring, noticed the spade connector was way corroded. Cleaned it and "vroom [:D]" No problem since.

Johnny

[Marsu]

In my case it was a failed relay. The car started easily after replacement with a second hand unit. The new and replacement are both Lucas items:


The connections on the original were not corroded, but cleaning had no effect.

[bmcecosse]

Is there any difference between the blue relay as above - and the black one with exactly the same connections ?