tr7triumph.com

Starting to think about working on a low mileage 1980 DHC that I have just acquired and wondered what thoughts and experiences the forum has on rust treatment products. The car has a Zeibart certificate from new but it doesn't seem to have done much good as the door skins, sills and wheels arches were all replaced/repaired in 1988!!
Is Waxoyl the best and what do you treat rusty areas with before painting.
All thoughts are welcome.

Russ

1980 TR7 DHC
Dursley
UK

Anything more than surface rust - needs replacing. Any rust coming through from behind definitely needs replacing! Light surface rust - rub down and apply Kurust or similar - most are phosphoric acid based. Then zinc primer and paint. I use Waxoyl - but I also try not to let my car ever get wet!

I'm pretty happy with the way components with surface rust have stood up following treatment with POR15:
1. Marine Clean
2. Metal Ready
3. POR15
4. Acid 8 etch primer & top coat(s)

(The last item only required for sunlight exposed parts or for aesthetic reasons.)

But conditions here are so different to what you guys get.

As bmcecosse says, apart from surface rust it has to be cut out or ground out and replaced with new metal, I use zinc coated steel.
Surface rust, remove as much rust as possible with an abrasive wheel, grind out with a flap wheel on an angle grinder.

I use dilute phosphuric acid to treat remaining pockets, it is also used as a wipe over clean metal to create a protective layer before painting. For items that can be removed I have found Bilt & Hamber products very effective with a solution made up in a container, a gel they produce can deal with minor surface rust on the body.

I paint over with an acid etch primer before a high build primer and top coat.

In the wheel arches I use a stone chip paint and underseal over, underseal can split and let moisture underneath which is not good. Waxoyl is good as a top layer protection away from weather exposed aeas - IMO[8D]

Pete
81 DHC (Undergoing minor body repair)
79 Spitfire (Current Main drive)

Ah, just re-read the post, you cannot paint over waxoyl, it is wax. Perhaps you mean hammrite products.

I would not over paint hammerite, it is good for painting chassis part etc but not on the cosmetic parts for over painting. I am about the paint the rear bumper bar with hammerite after de-rusting and before refitting the bumper covers.

Pete
81 DHC (Undergoing minor body repair)
79 Spitfire (Current Main drive)

The waxoyl goes in the closed cavities - sills and chassis legs etc.

To derust smaller (removable parts)I put them in molasses (diluted 10 to 1) or eletrolysis. On derusted parts I use metalready to take care of any flash rust and leave a coat of zinc for painting/priming. For solid parts like suspension, I use POR-15. For those similar parts that see the light of day I use POR-15 chassis paint (it's U/V resistant). For body parts I wire brush then use Metalready and work it in with a metal or brass brush to get out the rust from the little pits that power wire brushing doesn't get out despite it looking like it does.

For hidden rusted places (like sills) on Yellow TCT I'm going to use a product I haven't tried yet that sounds promising and is available and used locally Ship-2-Shore.

http://www.ship-2-shore.com/


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

For exposed areas, clean and treat as described above, For enclosed sections and underneath I have found waxoil does not creep enough, some of the more sophistiicated treatments like Bilt Hambers are supposed to be very good. I personally use a mixture of cheap new engine oil and waxoil which seems to work very well and creeps deeply into the seams.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by kstrutt1</i>

I have found waxoil does not creep enough,
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I mix my waxoil 50/50 with turpentine to make a more liquid solution so the air compressor will suck it up using an air cleaner wand. Stinks to high heaven for a week or so until the turps evaporated but ensures it will get in the cracks and crannies.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra