tr7triumph.com

Have been enjoying driving Tracie on dry days now the weather is getting a bit better.
Just putting her away last night only to discover brake fluid running down the clutch pedal onto her carpets
Has anyone else had this problem?, could it be running off the brake system or could it be the clutch, although that seems to be working fine,
The brakes do need attention i have noticed that she needs new brake cylinders and shoes as one side leaks slightly,this is being done on saturday,do you think this could be the problem?
Grateful for any comments
Thanks
Ray

If the fluid is running down the clutch pedal,
the clutch cylinder would be the first thing I'd check.

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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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Mine did this, it was coming from the clutch master cylinder. the Clutch will work ok until the level drops so far then a huge slug of air will get into the system. depending on the severity of the leak you might find the biting point is getting near the bottom of the pedal, some of the fluid operates the clutch but the rest goes past the seal and onto your carpet. use the search function, i'm sure there'll be a thread on it involving lots of upside down action in the footwell! Oh and when you change the seals, check the bore of the master cylinder for wear, scoring or sharp bits left over from when it was cast, admitedly never seen this on a 7 but have a few times on land rovers (same setup) remember to wear gloves, brake fluid plays havoc with my hands and to lubricate the seals with brake fluid when re-assembling it.

Think the seal kit was a fiver ish

Rob

Thanks for the advice
will check the items mentioned
will let you know
Thanks again

in the mean time check the clutch fluid resoviour (think i spelt it right?!?) and top it up if it needs it. just need to use DOT4 brake fluid. nothing too fancy.

I've had my 7 long enough to have refurbished the clutch master cylinder twice. The rubber inside perished both times dropping fluid directly on to my left foot ruining whatever shoes I was wearing at the time.

IIRC, as per Rob, it's easier to remove and replace the clutch master cylinder with the hood down. Why? Well, if you're lying on back with your head under the dash, your legs have to go somewhere.....

It's easy to rebuild the cylinder and the kit is only a few pounds. It's no more difficult than fitting a new cylinder.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

What i would of given for a hood to drop when i was doing that, even a sunroof to stick my legs out of! My neck's never been the same..

A little tip for old blokes, [& I should know], working in
footwells. There is no way I can get into there, with my feet up
over the seat these days.

Get a box.

In Oz, the plastic crate that holds a dozen 2L plastic milk bottles
is just the same height as the top of a TR7 cill. I put the box
beside the car, with 8 thicknesses of an old blanket on the box, &
across the cill, to pad the sharpish edge.

Sit on the box, facing the rear, & roll back across the cill, into
the foot well, diagonally. If I am expecting to be a long time, I
might take the steering wheel off first.

This leaves the seat free for you to lay out the tools you may need,
on a cloth on there. They are not that easy to fumble for there,
but it is easier than fumbling around under your butt.

Hasbeen

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

A little tip for old blokes, [& I should know], working in
footwells. There is no way I can get into there, with my feet up
over the seat these days.

Get a box.

In Oz, the plastic crate that holds a dozen 2L plastic milk bottles
is just the same height as the top of a TR7 cill. I put the box
beside the car, with 8 thicknesses of an old blanket on the box, &
across the cill, to pad the sharpish edge.

Sit on the box, facing the rear, & roll back across the cill, into
the foot well, diagonally. If I am expecting to be a long time, I
might take the steering wheel off first.

This leaves the seat free for you to lay out the tools you may need,
on a cloth on there. They are not that easy to fumble for there,
but it is easier than fumbling around under your butt.

Hasbeen
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That's brilliant! I wish I'd have thought of it before I had to get down there while changing my clutch master last winter. Not only am I older, than I was back when I put my feet up over the seat, I am much thicker. I could not get into the position now to save my life. I draped myself over the sill and craned my neck badly but I did eventually get it done, I just ached for a few days.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Clutch%20Master%20Cylinder.html"]Clutch Master Cylinder[/url]

only just rebuilt the master and slave cylinders on my car, piece of cake...[:D]


the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>

I've had my 7 long enough to have refurbished the clutch master cylinder twice. The rubber inside perished both times dropping fluid directly on to my left foot ruining whatever shoes I was wearing at the time.

Adam

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I've rebuilt mine twice. It developed the drips after being off the road for 6 years. Fortunantely, I use DOT5 in everything. So all it did was put a shine on my left shoe.[:D]

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

For any extensive under dash work like clutch cylinder etc. I take out the seat, 4 bolts and it lifts right out (with top down.) Possibly blankets/sleeping bag to ease the uneven floor. On your back with feet up over the back it's kind of comfy. Better than a crick in the back.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

oh boy! Now you also get to go through the clutch bleeding procedure
that so much has been written about in the last few months.
Better review that and please let us know how it goes for you.
good luck!

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

For any extensive under dash work like clutch cylinder etc. I take out the seat, 4 bolts and it lifts right out (with top down.) Possibly blankets/sleeping bag to ease the uneven floor. On your back with feet up over the back it's kind of comfy. Better than a crick in the back.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yep, and that goes for the new stuff too. Had to change out the resistor for the heater blower on the GF's Grand Prix. Way up under the dash on the passenger side near the firewall. Only two bolts fasten the seat on it and you can hit them with an air gun.[:)] As I grow older, I find it necessary to find the easiest and less painfull ways to do things. The pain doesn't go away as quickly as it used to.[:(]

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.