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Pulling Bushings

Posted: 13 Mar 2010 20:55
by FI Spyder
Using the socket and bolt method of removing bushing works very well with the 1 1/2" socket (used to undo crank pulley bolt) on the upper links and the lower link front bushing pops right out with hammer and block of wood. The rear lower link bushing is a little tougher. You need about a 2" scoket and I wasn't about to buy one just for that purpose. I did have a 2" hole saw so I cut a hole in a piece of 2x4 for the spacer. Below is a slide show showing how I did it. I use a piece of metal that had a smaller hole to suppor the wrenches I used as spacers. Be careful with cutting the lip off with exacto blade by not cutting too deeply each pass or it will slip and possibley cut you.

http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o131/Spit999/TR7/Pulling%20Bushings/?albumview=slideshow


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Posted: 13 Mar 2010 21:38
by bmcecosse
Useful link! And - did the new bushes just slide in.........????

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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 17:09
by FI Spyder
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

did the new bushes just slide in.........????
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Didn't put new bushes in yet but the poly bushes will be poly so with their split construction will be no problem.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 19:40
by bmcecosse
Split construction ? Is that a good idea ???

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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 22:48
by jclay (RIP 2018)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>


so with their split construction will be no problem.

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So, when they do become a problem (and they will), email me and I will tell you how to put them in rather easily.

Clay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

Posted: 15 Mar 2010 19:34
by FI Spyder
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

Split construction ? Is that a good idea ???
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

All poly bushings I've seen that have a lip are in two part/split construction. Although some people have had problems putting them on mine just slipped in. Mind you I've only done the fronts and the only part that is similar are the control arm bushings which are smaller. I am currently planning on getting the softer ones for the rear to isolate differential/road noise from the passenger compartment.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Posted: 15 Mar 2010 21:29
by Spectatohead
I just ordered the full Poly set for the rear of my car, including the spring pads, from Rimmer's. I was thinking I'd just take the trailing and control arms to a shop and have them do them. If this process works for the back I'd be willing to give it a go though.

I'm picking up some POR-15 later today to do the axle. The gas tank should be done next week and I should be able to start putting everything back together. Yesterday and today have been beautiful and I'm itching to take a spin.

Jim Clark
'80 TR8
'97 Maxima 5spd
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