Distributor removal - what comedian designed it?

[MrT]

So I need to remove my stock distributor in order to fit a Lumenition electronic ignition setup.

But for the life of me, I cannot figure out any way of undoing the two 7/16 securing bolts that go through the distributor flange and into the block. At least not without first draining the cooling system and removing the carbs & manifold! There's a slim possibility that I might be able to get the rearmost bolt out, but I can barely even see the front bolt, let alone getr a spanner on it! And even if I can get them out, how the hell would I get them back in!?

Is there a magic service spanner available that telepathically removes the bolts, or do I really have to remove the car from the distributor instead!? Am I missing something, 'coz I'm totally stuck with a car that won't run, and I can't see a way of fixing it...

Dale


Austin A60 pickup
Triumph TR7
Yamaha SRX-6 (x2)
Ford Maverick
Fiat Idea

[Troy ODoherty]

He was not a comedian. He was the Prince of Darkness.Another excellent feature was to put it at the back of the engine bay so water could find its way onto it more easily.[:D]

Cheers Troy

[Hasbeen]

Dale, get an open ender spanner, add some heat, & bend it at 90
degrees, [in the right place to clear everything] & it's a snap,
[if it's not rusty].

Hasbeen

[Red]

Or alternatively, get a double ended spanner and take a hacksaw to it.

Result: 2 stubby spanners, perfect for the job. [8D]

If you want stupid designs, try taking the alt out of a late model Saab 900. They designed it so the mounting bolt is 1/2" too long to clear the bulkhead, so you have to remove the entire mounting bracket. Three weeks after doing that, my scars are still healing. [B)]

Garry

1976 2.0 (soon to be 3.5!)FHC
http://reds-tr7.blogspot.com/

[MrT]

Thanks for the tips. I did think about modifying a spanner (I'd need to buy a longer one to modify!), but I've got the worlds largest hands, so access is always gonna be a problem. The issue is gonna be the front bolt. Removing the carbs/manifold may be my best bet - I know it'll all come undone OK as I only fitted them a few months ago[V]

This really does show me that my plan for my Sprint conversion next winter that'll use Kawasaki ZX-7R Ninja 38mm carbs and a distributor-less Megajolt-based ignition system <i>really is</i> the right way to go...

Dale


Agrati Capri (x2)
Triumph TR7
Yamaha SRX-6 (x2)
Ford Maverick

[windy one]

What Im thinking of doing is...once Ive removed the two bolts, replacing them with stainless steel allen-head bolts. Should make it easier for adjustment.

Johnny

[Red]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by MrT</i>I've got the worlds largest hands, so access is always gonna be a problem.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Ah yes, a common problem. What you really need is a small child to do the work. [:D]

I seem to remember seeing a digram of the original BL tool for this, it looks a little bit like a long spanner where the end is cranked round 90 degrees to make an L shape (the short edge is about 2" or so). You then go in from the top of the distributor. Depending on your fabrication/welding skills you may be able to make something similar.

Removing the carbs will certainly help, but then you get the problem of setting the timing properly - you won't be able to do that with the carbs off!

Either way, it's a painfully awkward job. I remember when I did mine, a lot of naughty words were uttered and blood was drawn. I think some spanners were thrown, too. [B)] I don't envy you!



Garry

1976 2.0 (soon to be 3.5!)FHC
http://reds-tr7.blogspot.com/

[stevie_a]

<font color="teal"><b>I know what you are saying

I had a very small spanner

but look at this

this is when i did it </b> </font id="teal">

[url="http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7055&whichpage=3&SearchTerms=electronic+ignition"][/url]

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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

[Beans]

Get yourself one of these (7/16-1/2) ...



<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[Wayne S]

It is just about possible with the ring end of a normal spanner but I got an S shaped one a bit like the one Beans shows above - 11mm I think from memory - did the trick and was easy once I found the route in. No need to remove anything but the dizzy cap and airbox if you have one.

I solved the problem long term by getting a V8 instead .... lol

<b>Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)</b>

[John Clancy]

I have no problem at all getting an ordinary ring spanner onto the distributor bolts. I do it mainly by feel rather than sight. You'll probably need to remove the air box to get your arms under the inlet manifold (which mine doesn't have owing to all the TriumphTune equipment).

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

[Maxwell]

Getting the bolt back in? Try holding the bolt with a half-inch wide sliver of cardboard five inches long; hole-punched in one end to accept the shank....

Cheap, and it worked for me.

Maxwell [8D]

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by MrT</i>


Is there a magic service spanner available that telepathically removes the bolts, or do I really have to remove the car from the distributor instead!? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You think this is bad? Try removing an alternator from an Integra....you have take apart the left suspension and pull the axle to drop it down a little hole (space) after removing lower mounting bracket through said hole. Compared to this removing the distributor on a TR7 is a piece of cake.[:)]


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[mb4tim]

I used a short ignition wrench (hence, the title, and put about a 25-30 degree bend in the box end. Works bloody well with a FI car.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

[1980dhc]

mb4tim do you have any idea when you will start making TR7 bumpers again? As soon as you start I am placing an order.

Thanks
Holt