how much to change clutch?

[mitchelltjohn]

Clutch in my std 2.0l TR7 is now starting to slip. I have bought new clutch kit and am pondering doing work my self (amateur, first time to remove geearboc clutch etc.) or giving to a mechanic. Any idea typical UK cost of for mechanic to change TR7 clutch?

standard 1981 DHC

[nervousnewowner]

prob wont get much change from 200 but if you got access to a pit or ramps i would try it yourself, damn sight easier to change a clutch on a car like this than a front wheel drive, make sure when you drop the prop that you mark it so it goes back the same way as they are normally balanced.


the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

[Jolyon39]

I did the last one on ramps.

I was pleased to have donbe it my self as I discovered other little things that needed work and were easy to change at the same time. They were:

1. Rubber gearbox mount
2. Shifter bushings (Little rubber washers on gearstick extension that rot out)

I also took the time to clean the gearbox off at the same time so that reassembly was not slippery and future work easier.

Jolyon

[Workshop Help]

Yes, by all means, try it yourself. I've done it several times over the years. Here's a BIG HINT; install two studs in the lower engine plate holes so the gearbox can be lined up much easier when reinstalling the unit.

You will need two ramps, two cinder blocks, and a garage type floor jack. A beefy assistant present on the other side of the gearbox is also helpful, unless you are Superman or a Big Foot. Getting the gearbox out is the easy part as it will slide out onto the floorjack.

Mildred Hargis

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

You will also need to make this tool. It keeps the engine from turning while you work with the bolts. Upper center:



Also, make sure you have the correct clutch assembly.



I would also replace the throw-out bearing arm as it usually pushes through the pivot point as soon as you let the car down and try to drive it.





jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

[Hasbeen]

The last time I pulled a gearbox out of a 7, was about 4 years ago.
I was 65 at the time.

I did it single handed, with the car up on 15 inch ramps.

When I got to the stage of lying on my back, under the car, with the
box on my chest/stomach, was when I discovered I was no longer
strong enough to lift the damn thing off my chest, & the car was
not high enough for me to roll out with the box there. It took
about 5 minutes to worm out from under it.

I now have a really pretty cradle, which fits the floor jack, &
holds the box. I had to build the thing, to get the box back in, as
it won't balance there, with out a helper.

That should ensure I will never have to do it again.

I do like Mildred's idea of those studs. I found getting it in
place, & sliding forward quite a chore.

Hasbeen

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>


I did it single handed, with the car up on 15 inch ramps.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

15 inch ramps and 3.5" ground clearance = 18.5"
I've got jackstands that have hydraulic lifts on them that give me a total of 21" lift. Should be enough. Just have to design a scissor cradle that can lower down the transmission so I can roll it out. Will have to put my design skills to work. I sense a possible something from the release bearing that will have to be looked at at some time.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[Hasbeen]

Spyder, that was high enough to get it back under, on the floor
jack, once I had the cradle, which is only an inch or so higher
than the jack pad. You should have no trouble.

I only found out I had bent the reversing light switch bracket,
after everything was in. Not too easy, but do-able in place.
Easier to adjust the switch, just before you put the box in.

Hasbeen

[mitchelltjohn]

thanks for all these very helpful replies!

I may be able to get access to a lift - I guess I should grab this opportunity. However, I like the idea of using trolley jack to support gearbox as it drops down. I assuem if I use lift at standing height then obviously I can't use trolly jack to support gearbox drop but will need a second helper - correct?

Also I hear about need for clutch alignment tool or spare gearbox spine - how does that work?

(Sorry for dumb questions...)



standard 1981 DHC

[Jolyon39]

Two trolley jacks work just as well as one jack with a special cradle.

I placed one jack at the tailshaft end and one jack at the front (bellhousing) end. This allowed me to line up the gearbox by jacking front or back and to wheel it into place.

Lining up the clutch:

The clutch is in two pieces. The visible part is the outer cover you see above in the "correct" and "incorrect" photographs. This clutch cover is like a giant spring that is opened and closed with the clutch pedal action, clamping onto the next part. The clamp effect squeezes teh next item between it and the flywheel.

The inner part (clutch plate) is a large disc with fibre plates and springs to take the recoil as the clamp locks onto it. You install it behind the clutch cover so it is hidden and needs to be centred before you tighten up the bolts. It needs to be centred because the input shaft slides into the centre of the clutch assembly as you join the motor to the gearbox. This means you need to line it all up so that the gearbox will slide in.

The tool to line it up is a simple plastic thing (or an old gearbox input shaft)and you insert it before you tighten up the cluch cover bolts that clamp it in place (clamped until the clutch pedal pushes the leaver). Once it is all lined up you can tighten up the bolts and pull out the tool. Now the gearbox will mate to the motor.

Do you need an explanation of how the clutch works??

Here goes:

The clutch disconnects motor drive from the spinning road wheels and happens at the joint between gearbox and motor.

The Clutch cover is like a clamp attached to the motor and spins with that. The clutch plate sits nside this clamp, is only connected to the gearbox shaft and spins with that. When you take your foot off the clutch pedal, the clamp closes and holds onto the clutch plate --> thus joining the two, engine and gearbox, together. When you put your foot on the clutch pedal the clamp is forced appart and the two are no longer connected so the gearbox might not be turning but the engine is eg. waiting at the lights.

Jolyon

[Workshop Help]

I find it somewhat troubling to see questions that are a mite too simple like the above query on the clutch alignment tool. Are we sending a person with no mechanical skills into deep waters that are beyond his skills? Granted, most all of us here are more than adept at pulling out the toolbox to dive head first into anything on these cars, but is mitchelljohn also in our league of skill levels?

My point is, perhaps our eagerness is overloading him. Should our first response been to inquire his abilities?

Mildred Hargis

[nervousnewowner]

naw mildred they will be ok, if you dont ask you dont learn, clutch alignment sounds daunting but once you know its just to line the clutch plate up it makes sense...... [:D]

til we get the next post about a disintegrating clutch....[:0] which i'm sure wont happen.

also if you have access to a lift, see if the owners of it have a gearbox cradle too, that way you drop the gearbox onto that, must admit ewsiest route might be gearbox off floor level and get a helper and replace it with the car on the lift...


the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

[nervousnewowner]

and once they get their clutch changed successfully then we all know where to take our cars when ours need doing [;)]


the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

[Odd]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I may be able to get access to a lift - I guess I should grab this opportunity.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> If you've got access to a lift - get yourself access to one of these puppies:

Not very expensive - and will save your back...

[busheytrader]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by nervousnewowner</i>

naw mildred they will be ok.............<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">also in our league of skill levels? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I first encountered a clutch alignment tool when converting mine to V8. (Prior to the conversion the most complicated stuff I'd tackled was renewing the clutch on a Mini, rebuilding the 7's clutch master cylinder and uprating the brakes etc.) All I knew was that I needed one to centre the clutch plate or the gearbox would never mate to the engine / bellhousing. Off I went to the motor factors expecting to buy a comprehensive piece of precision engineering. It's a stick! A round lumpy bit fits onto it. Extra lumpy bits are supplied for use with other cars. It's a doddle to use, no degree in the dark arts required.

There's a first time for everything and with the right tools, facilities and a decent manual, a home mechanic (like me) can tackle most things on a 7. At the moment I wouldn't rebuild a gearbox or respray a bonnet but I've welded up a floorpan, converted my 7 to a V8 and rebuilt the heater box. (Heater box was the worst)

So long as your 7 isn't needed as a daily driver you have time on your side. Virtually every job has been done by contributors to the forum and advice and humour is freely given. So go for it MJ.

Adam





TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991