Technical question on front dampers

Chubster · Postby **Chubster** » 03 Feb 2010 18:07

With both front damper inserts removed from the car, when they are fully extended (by pulling them out to the stop) they settle back around two inches almost immediately and then about another half an inch after a short while. They do not settle by the same amount, there is about an inch in height difference. They have also only done 3500 miles since new, is this acceptable, or does this mean they are failing?[:D][:p]

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 03 Feb 2010 23:46

I must admit i've only ever manually pumped dampers to prime them before fitting, i've never extended them and thought to watch them retract! If when they're fitted you don't have excessive bounce, they're not leaking and you don't notice anything suspicious then i wouldn't worry. Are they adjustable or standard dampers? just wondering if one maybe adjusted slightly stiffer than the other and the lack of weight on them is making them settle differently. The true test is when they're on the car. Lovely motor you have there!

Chubster · Postby **Chubster** » 04 Feb 2010 17:57

Thank you, the colour is one either like or you dont!

Had a mechanic chappy give me a second opinion and he confirms as thought they are not as they should be, so I have just ordered a complete set of KYB's from S+S. Just dont think its worth messing with dodgy shocks, but wont be buying or suggesting Spax again![:p][8]

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 04 Feb 2010 18:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Chubster

...but wont be buying or suggesting Spax again ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Me neither ...

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 05 Feb 2010 01:22

What's the problem with Spax? apart from the stupid name of course!

So are we saying that if a damper that settles half an inch more than another one when under no load, does not leak and damps as it should is considered to be not quite right? What made you suspect the dampers were faulty to start with and what was the mechanics reason for the damper "not being how it should be"?

I have seen adjustable shocks that have been wound up to their stiffest setting killed within a few thousand miles, can't remember the make but they were cheap and had obviously over heated.

I'm curious now as i have Spax fitted!

Rob.

Chubster · Postby **Chubster** » 05 Feb 2010 18:48

Maybe it was not put in the best wording. The dampers from fully extended sink back about two inches very quickly, and then sink back to around 50% of the original fully extended length within a few minutes. The problem speeds up when you pump them in and out quickly reducing the time they spend extended, therefore when on the road they are not damping effectively, and thus you spend more time using the spring and at times the bump stops. The problem manifested itself on the road by the front appearing to be vague and when pushed was not a progressive feel. The fact that these have only done 3500 miles from new is not good, however you could give them the benefit of the doubt by saying that they were not immediately fitted therefore it is possible that the seals have settled or become hard. BUT I am not prepared to shell out again for shocks that are essentially creamed within that very small mileage. But it is all down to individual experience.[:p][8]

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 05 Feb 2010 23:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Bobbieslandy

... I'm curious now as i have Spax fitted ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Some 20+ years ago I fitted a set of Spax under my first TR7.
The front dampers were completely knackered after 20.000 km ...

When I bought the Bordeaux DHC from a friend a few years ago, it came with Spax at the rear.
The car hadn't been driven for more than a few thousand miles since he installed them,
but they were almost rock solid despite being at their lowest setting.
There was also noticeable difference between the two.

So, no more Spax for me [B)]

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]My Weblog[/url]</center>

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 06 Feb 2010 22:15

Hi Chubster,

How old were the front Spax before you fitted them? Mine lasted nearly 20 years before the seals eventually failed, most likely due to perished gaiters letting crud in. Back in the late 80's it was a choice of std front shox, or from Triumphtune the non-adjustable Spax or more expensive Konis.

The rear Spax are still fine on setting 2 out of 12. Above that it starts getting uncomfortable on our roads.

Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 07 Feb 2010 10:56

That's a fair comment, once bitten twice shy. I didn't realise your cars handling was suffering as a result, to be honest i would of done exactly the same thing. Mine have covered around 2000 miles since 2003, 1000 miles since sept 06, 200 miles since aug 04 and sept 06 and a few hundred by a previous owner. My car will be back on the road by April (latest July) so we'll see if the Spax are the same as when i put the car away nearly three years ago! My 1976 rally Graphics came with bilstein stickers, are their shocks any good? perhaps i'll make a new thread.

Chubster · Postby **Chubster** » 07 Feb 2010 11:10

Dont know on the age prior to fitting, I suggest it depends on the supply chains stock levels and how they have been stored etc prior to purchase. Never mind though its always good to tinker, in the summer its a car and in the winter its a big boys Mechano kit! Best of both worlds, (although I think the Mechano kits were cheaper, or is it me getting older.[8D][8]

Chubster · Postby **Chubster** » 07 Feb 2010 11:49

Made the most of the situation and went the whole hog everything stripped, blasted and coated.

RUDDY · Postby **RUDDY** » 07 Feb 2010 18:05

Chubster, looking very good, is your car Java Green as it looks brighter than mine, it looks very very nice.

Cheers, Paul

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 07 Feb 2010 19:26

I guess that's the only trouble with this website. You set out to do a job only to find someone's done it ten times better and you feel duty bound to match or excell. Man this is going to get expensive!......

Ditto on the colour, looks fantastic.

Chubster · Postby **Chubster** » 07 Feb 2010 19:53

Cheers chaps, yes its Java green, it also helps that the sun was shining...Hmmm could do with some sun now!. Its a colour that is either liked or not and have had comments for both. Its also work in progess, each winter it gets another job this year it was rear disk brakes and a watts linkage, however due to the shocks thing its now also a complete suspension build.. oh well..[:p][8]

Bobbieslandy · Postby **Bobbieslandy** » 07 Feb 2010 20:03

The snowball effect, one i'm well aware of. you'd think that an inanimate object of limited parts you'd reach an automotive climax where you can turn to your wife and say "It's finished". yeah right.

Anonymous

Technical question on front dampers

Technical question on front dampers

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