Garnet blast or Soda blast the shell.

[Jolyon39]

Hi,

Just doing a body swap with a California shell to my ex british car.

The California shell is BRG and my car Persian Aqua. I like the Persian Aqua and have all the trim for this colour so the new shell gets a colour change.

There is lots of discussion about what media to use when blasting. Soda seems to cost 2x more than Garnet but they claim that Garnet gives a nice key to the metal for the paint to adhere to. I am starting to get confused..... what do you recommend guys????

Also, the car will need priming straight afterwards. Painters tell me to start with a two pack primer. Which brand or type of two pack would you use?

Jolyon

[Huckleberry]

Are you doing this yourself or having it done? If it's DIY, you will need a lot of compressor power for soda, but it is a little safer for the noobie in that you can't do much damage in terms of warping the metal. Soda also is gentle on chrome, rubber, and glass. But soda doesn't remove rust, just paint. I think the soda-blasted metal has a good tooth, but I'm not that experienced. Make sure that you have throughly removed the soda before primering. If you're paying someone else, be sure they understand that you are concerned about warping the metal so they go slow and easy. I saw a crew strip a TR8 with soda in about two hours, but they had a gas-powered compressor as big as a car.

Huck

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly

[Jolyon39]

I will pay someone else to do it and the shell is completely stripped. They will also prime the shell after blasting it, they recommend garnet and say the metal of the shell is so strong that no damage will be done.

I do not intend to do the underside though, why change something that is ok? (Maybe I will paint underseal all over that after injecting rust proofing everywhere.)

Jolyon

[Marko]

ive done some sandblasting it realy removes all to the bare metal and the surface is like 600 sanding paper ,

why not do the whole car while you are at it? you never know if some stone chips damaged the undercoat. and all the hustle of driving the shell to the blast shop ,and priming and driving it back ...
its too big job to not do it right

[Underdog]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jolyon39</i>



I will pay someone else to do it and the shell is completely stripped. They will also prime the shell after blasting it, they recommend garnet and say the metal of the shell is so strong that no damage will be done.

Jolyon

]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If by garnet you mean some sort of sand, I would make them gaurantee no damage in writing. I've seen panels ruined by sandblasting. On curved sections you may get away with it. I'd never attempt it on flat panels like the hood, doors, decklid, roof ect.

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[mb4tim]

my MGB got glass bead blasted, where there was rust they used an abrasive, then epoxy primered the whole thing

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com

[Marko]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Underdog</i>



If by garnet you mean some sort of sand, I would make them gaurantee no damage in writing. I've seen panels ruined by sandblasting. On curved sections you may get away with it. I'd never attempt it on flat panels like the hood, doors, decklid, roof ect.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

its ok with lower pressure 7-9 bars , its like sanding really quickly,

but when those idiots in workshops blast a 1 mm thin sheet metal with a 20 bar sandblaster made for stripping thick boat hulls, or cleaning train wagons, massive castings or such things, then the they bent it all from heat input


moderation is the key

garnet is a mineral used as abrasive.

[RUDDY]

I would go soda blasting if the full car is to be done, my mates RS2000 has just been destroyed by a guy with a sandblaster, the panels were rippled like waves, he has had to buy another shell. This is the second person I know to have had a good shell ruined by sand blasting.

Some good info here on soda blasting, but too far to travel for yourself [:)]

http://www.suttonsodablasting.co.uk/home.html

[Beans]

My DHC was sandblasted, came out pretty good.
Most important thing to bear in mind is that the (sand)blasting is only to remove rust and not paint.





Paint needs to be removed chemically, to avoid distortion.
That way you can work with pretty low pressure. But you'll have to take your time with the blasting, doing small sections at a time, with long breaks in between to allow the body to cool down.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[Underdog]

The way Bean's car is done is exactly my prefered method. Those areas in the photos that have been blasted are perfectly safe to do. Soda is fine for paint removal if you don't mind paying. It's also great for doing the backside of things like a bonnet where the chemical remover can leak under braceing ect.

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[Beans]

The complete shell including bonnet, doors and bootlid was sand blasted.
The lighter areas around the seams are hot zinc plated

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[john mc nulty]

I was reading some where that sand blasting is illegal in the UK now unless used with water but you would not want water anywhere near your shell when stripping it.I know where I heard it was on a TV show beetle crisis.

[Underdog]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Beans</i>

The complete shell including bonnet, doors and bootlid was sand blasted.
The lighter areas around the seams are hot zinc plated

[<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Sorry I misunderstood. You had mentioned chemically removing the paint in your post. That is what confused me.

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[Beans]

Maybe I wasn't clear, but first the paint was removed by putting the shell in a chemical bath,
after which I scraped of the remaining under body seal and seam sealant (messy and time consuming job).
With the body shell completely bare it was sand blasted.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>