Front strut question...

Odd · Postby **Odd** » 10 Jan 2010 17:45

Friends,
I'm a bit puzzled here. As you know I'm working on dads TR7V8 and now I'm freshening up his front
struts... I found this strange phenomenon when I started to (trial-)fit everything back together:
On the shock absorber rod there is a ledge (actually there are two, but let's disregard the upper one
closest to the threaded part for now) arrowed in this photograph:

On this ledge the plastic (nylon or something) bushing UKC329 is riding/seating. Arrowed A in the
picture below. This means the second ledge on the rod ends up roughly 5 mm above the top
surface of UKC329, preventing the large flat washer UKC9395 to rest on the bearing surface of
the nylon bushing. This all seems wrong to me, shouldn't the rod ledge seat on the spring-seat
steel cup bottom, at the hole arrowed B? What's up with this? To me it seems I'm missing some-
thing important here, or is there really an intentional 5 millimetres of play to be built in here?

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 10 Jan 2010 17:59

Hi,

According to Roger Williams book Improve your 7 & 7V8 , p56, you should be worried if it's not there. "The centre of the top mounting dish will be damaged without it"

Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 10 Jan 2010 18:54

The spring seat and with it the bush, will be pressed against the large washer (UKC9395) by the road spring.
So the lower ledge will be below this bush. One of the bushes' funtions is to centre the spring around the strut.

<center>

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

Odd · Postby **Odd** » 10 Jan 2010 19:53

Thanks guys, you made me realise I wasn't thinking straight...
Let's then hope the same goes for when fitting the (recessed into the ULC2435) Ford bearings
substituting for the UKC9395:

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 10 Jan 2010 20:38

Looks familiar, did that mod a few years ago [:)]

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

busheytrader · Postby **busheytrader** » 10 Jan 2010 21:35

Good idea.

I changed to roller / ball strut bearings and stepped up to 195 x 14" tyres at the same time. The steering became smoother and lighter despite the wider tyres. Parking is less of a workout.

Ianftr8 · Postby **Ianftr8** » 11 Jan 2010 08:23

Odd, as a follow up to our recent conversations - I think you have solved the problem - when fitting the sierra bearing into the aluminium cone did you alter the rubber seal at all?

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

RUDDY · Postby **RUDDY** » 11 Jan 2010 08:35

Guys, is there a part number for the Sierra bearing, do you have to machine the recess ? Just about to strip rebuild my front struts and hoped to do this mod.

Cheers, Paul

stricky · Postby **stricky** » 11 Jan 2010 08:49

Hi Paul some useful stuff here :

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... conversion

think the sierra only had one type of strut top bearing so you shouldn't go too far wrong.....in fact I have a spare pair if you need them ( never fitted went for adjustable camber/castor kit instead )

Jon

'81 TR7 DHC
'79 TR7 V8 FHC

Photo's Here - http://s480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/stricky1967/

Odd · Postby **Odd** » 11 Jan 2010 09:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Odd,
as a follow up to our recent conversations - I think you have solved the problem - when fitting
the sierra bearing into the aluminium cone did you alter the rubber seal at all? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> No, with the dimensions given it was just a nice firm tapping needed to seat the bearing into
the recess. The dust seal on the bearing simply adjusted itself to follow the surface of the cone... <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Guys, is there a part number for the Sierra bearing, <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Yes, 6150276;

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> do you have to machine the recess? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Yes, 8.25mm deep and 42.14mm in diametre;

RUDDY · Postby **RUDDY** » 11 Jan 2010 11:44

Thanks for your help guys.

Cheers Paul

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 11 Jan 2010 16:34

And a slightly different approach, with the same end result ...

1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

Jolyon39 · Postby **Jolyon39** » 11 Jan 2010 18:17

Thanks for the drawing Beans

What are the two depth measurements? You only have an overall measurement shown but there are two levels.

Jolyon

RUDDY · Postby **RUDDY** » 11 Jan 2010 18:41

Just to clarify then, if I install the Sierra bearing into ULC2435 (dome), obviously do away with needle bearing bit which I beleive replaced 3 washers, does the bearing face then run against ULC2043 ?

Cheers, Paul

saabfast · Postby **saabfast** » 11 Jan 2010 20:27

I used the S&S 'kit' which only replaced the original nylon washers etc, no lathe work necessary.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

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Front strut question...

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