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I've been thinking of replacing my stock filter with K&N that fits the stock air box. I had a noticable performance increase a few years back when I installed a K&N on my BMW 325e. Of course that car's engine needed a lot of help. Next I used one on my Toyota 4Runner and it did not seem to make any difference. Any improvements on the TR7?

nick

Yes, buy it once and it lasts forever so you don't have to buy any more.

As for increased performance, if there is any more, it doesn't make much if any difference.

Mildred Hargis

By itself it won't make much of a difference as it's only half the equation. To make use of the less restrictive intake you also have to be able to get rid of the increased potential air flow. This is done with a tuned header, preferably a 4-2-1 for better mid range.
This will give you a free reving engine that doesn't gasp at 4,000 rpm. To increase the power you need 9.25 - 1 pistons (like the UK boys and girls have.) Next a hotter cam will let more gas mixture in for more hp. Not too hot a cam or it will be peaky and idle rough not what you want for the road. That's about it. If you want more power than that it's time to go for Buick V-6 and tranny cheap and easily available. Cheaper on this side of the Atlantic than Rover V-8 or Sprint engine/head that wasn't imported here. Also tougher to find is an old Buick/Oldsmobile 215 V-8 as they where only produced for a few years.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

4000 revs iv'e not dared take it that far yet.......
mind you iv'e only done about 1250 miles sice the engine re-build so wont be long until i can put my foot down wehey........

mine has the free flowing header and sports s/s exhaust K&N pancake filters BAL needles but is there much left after 4000 revs[?]

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!

Believe me Mildred, they don't last forever. I have the proof here with a pair I removed after about 20 years on the car. They'd shrunk to such an extent that the only sensible thing to do was replace them.

Petrol icing can occur in cold weather with K&N's.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

When it comes to anything on a car, twenty years IS forever.

Mildred Hargis

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by gaz</i>

4000 revs iv'e not dared take it that far yet.......
mind you iv'e only done about 1250 miles sice the engine re-build so wont be long until i can put my foot down wehey........

mine has the free flowing header and sports s/s exhaust K&N pancake filters BAL needles but is there much left after 4000 revs[?]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That would depend on your uprated cam. After that is addressed you start running into the limitations of 8 valves vs. 16.

Next step is a Sprint head if you're in UK or time to look at a Buick V-6 if your in N/A.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

no upratedd cam, by free flowing header i meant exhaust ( tubular manifold ) sorry for confusion thats what there called is it not

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!

i'm not bothered about any extra speed i'll leave that for the young and young at hearts just didn't think there would be much left after 4000RPMs


It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!

Decent set up standard TR7 engine should happily rev to 6500 rpm in lower gears ...

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Yes Beans, I'm sure mine would, but I am also pretty sure, it would
be accelerating faster, if I had changed to 3Rd, 4TH & 5th a couple
of thousand RPM earlier. I have proved these feelings right, on the
track, in the past, but I WAS A LITTLE BIT younger, & probably had
more highly tuned senses, back then.

I did have one 7, with SZ carbs, so probably a US spec engine, which
needed more than 3500 RPM, to have any chance of climbing any sort
of a hill. It was totally gutless below that. Our local town has an
80 to 100Km zone, at the bottom of a moderate hill. My current 7
will comfortably accelerate up to 100 in 5Th, up the hill. The SZ
carb car would not accelerate even in 4Th, & had to howl in third
to gain any speed.

It did not seem to mind being revved a fair bit. On a long trip,
even with a bit of range work, it would get down into the mid
7.5L/100Km fuel economy.

I did a bit of experimentation on this some time back. I did a
series of runs in 5Th gear, taking the time at each 20KPH from 40 to 140.

I was quite surprised to find my 7 is quicker to get fron 60 to
80K/H, than for any other 20KPA range, yes, in 5Th. I felt it was
accelerating harder from 80 to 100KPA, & it seemed to be going much
harder, from 100 to 120, but we did it a number of times, & the
stop watch said otherwise.

Hasbeen

I am not promoting red-lining the engine when ever possible (leave that to their owners to decide [:p]).

Only thing I want to say is that if your engine doesn't reach the red line in lower gears (when on temperature of course), the engine is restricted one way or another [;)]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I did have one 7, with SZ carbs, so probably a US spec engine, which
needed more than 3500 RPM, to have any chance of climbing any sort
of a hill. It was totally gutless below that. Our local town has an
80 to 100Km zone, at the bottom of a moderate hill.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Was that US spec engine equipped with all the anti pollution gagets? Air pump, EGR and all the rest?

nick