tr7triumph.com

my apoligies if i have fallen asleep under a bush and missed these mentioned in another thread, but has anyone bought/used these of this seller
end of the day its just a couple of pices of ally and four bolts should be fine yeh?

i seem to remember someone thinking of making a few of these up on this forum are these the same........

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0510543563

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!

<font color="maroon"><b>I got them from this seller Gaz

I did this for another forum , yes it did make a big difference

As you will see I used lock nuts rather than the ones supplied </b></font id="maroon">

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<font color="blue"><b>I have decided to fit an anti dive kit to my car

Basically it is 2 aluminum blocks and 4 long bolts</b></font id="blue">




<font color="blue"><b>the purpose is to stop the front end diving and rising under acceleration and braking

It also helps tighten up the handling

It is a common modification to the TR7

OK first I put the car up on some ramps ( we don't all have the luxury of a garage lift)



Basically the blocks go under the front anti roll bar



This is the mounting with the Rubber bush in it that has to get lowered



I unbolted it and removed it to insert new poly bush into it





To find there was already new poly bushes in it

( ah well anybody want a poly bush set for the front of the anti roll bar )

[:0]..[:0]..[:0]..[:0]



Returned it back on to the car along with the block



New longer bolts and all tightened up



Now after a test drive a massive difference to the car

Good job well done ...[;)] </b> </font id="blue">

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<font size="4"><font color="green"><i>If it's not broke don't fix it.</i></font id="green"></font id="size4">

I installed a set on my last TR8, but really didnt feel a difference. I just picked up another set, and plan to insatll it on my current TR7. I can report back with my opinion if you'd like. Gona be two-three weeks before Im done but I can.

but in all actuality...you can just make your own set if you'd like to try them.

BTW...great pic's Stevie!

Johnny

cheers steve it was really just to see if any one had bought these ones of this seller and if they were as good as the ones 4 or 5 times the price elsewhere

i realise there will be a difference in finish as these are probs cut and drilled in somebodys back yard shed and not on a £30.000+ milling machine but do these things need to be?
i meen would there be any saftey issues using these as oppose to the ones supplied by S&S and the like basicly would i be risking life lim for the sake of saving £25 or so
i have bought this set already but are now having second thoughts about using them i'm sure there fine but........ for £25 more the'll be spot on[?][?][?][?]

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!

And with a little interest you can actually make them look as if they were an OEM fitment..: [:D]


PS
The sway bar is Ted Schumachers extra stiff uprated TR8 bar, not the standard TR8 one...

by the way thanks for the pics youll where that camera out one of these days you know[:D]

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!

I noticed that Steve doesn't have the clamps installed. They are there to reduce side movement of the bar in cornering.

jclay

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I purchased mine from Robsport (bloomin' cheap as I recall!) and I find they make a heck of a difference, mainly as the car cornerts flatter. It also doesn't suffer so badly from front-end pitching under braking. Of course I have a completely modified suspension but from the original reports when TriumphTune first introduced the anti-dive kit it was claimed it was an essential add-on for even a standard TR7.

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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Odd</i>

And with a little interest you can actually make them look as if they were an OEM fitment..:
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

No original fitment looked that good.[:D]

Some people say they make a big difference.....some say it makes no/little difference. Is this a psychological difference? I'm tempted got a cheap set and put them on one of the TR7's to see if I can see the difference.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

everyone is just fooling themselves with this issue. all you are really doing is putting the track arm bushings under severe bind to lever the front of the car up. sure it helps a little with dive, but replace the shocks and springs and you won't have dive to begin with.

tom

it's not how fast you go, it's how quickly you go fast

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tom bauer</i>

everyone is just fooling themselves with this issue. all you are really doing is putting the track arm bushings under severe bind to lever the front of the car up. sure it helps a little with dive, but replace the shocks and springs and you won't have dive to begin with.

tom

it's not how fast you go, it's how quickly you go fast


<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

<font size="2"> That's how I fixed mine...

Mickey </font id="size2">

I bought my anti-dive kit from Triumphtune back in the 80's when my 7 was six years old and totally standard. Under braking it stood on its nose and lifted its bum in the air. (Don't get me started on the std brakes!)

The anti dive kit helped on its own but not a huge amount.

Fitting Triumphtune's uprated anti-rollbar bushes made things better but it still dropped under braking.

As per MickeyR, it was finally minimised when all the springs, shox and <u>all</u> the suspension bushes were uprated. That includes the subframe bushes as well as it works as the sum of the parts. Polybushes allround really tighten everything up.

I removed the Triumphtune bushes a few years ago from the anti roll bar. The polythene type material had shrunk and hardened so much it was only fit for a game of conkers. I wonder what they were made from.

Adam





TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tom bauer</i>

everyone is just fooling themselves with this issue. all you are really doing is putting the track arm bushings under severe bind to lever the front of the car up. sure it helps a little with dive, but replace the shocks and springs and you won't have dive to begin with.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
What you really do when fitting the anti-dive-kit is lowering the ARB's (=track arm on a TR7) pick up point. So yes it does help a bit with anti dive under braking (simple wheel geometry). But not much in my opinion. And yes you also preload the ARB and its end bushes, giving slightly sharper handling.

Fitting stiffer springs is of course a good remedy against dive-under-braking. Although on my car (FHC) with 336 lbs front springs, very decent shocks, poly bushes and beefier ARB, it still dives pretty much under heavy braking. But even that can be sorted pretty easily, I just need some more free time at the moment [B)]

<center>
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1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tom bauer</i>

everyone is just fooling themselves with this issue. all you are really doing is putting the track arm bushings under severe bind to lever the front of the car up. sure it helps a little with dive, but replace the shocks and springs and you won't have dive to begin with.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Good discussion after this comment. I replaced front springs with standard (90 lb.) springs KYB gas shocks (front), hard black poly bushings except for soft orange sub frame bushings and I don't think I have much dive. This included a sharp brake that locked the rear wheels (not fronts) to avoid a deer on road and a lock of all four wheels to avoid an SUV on road (although it did dive more that time). As far as traction I have Kumho tires at 32-34 lbs. (winner of last African Dakar, single seat buggy, and possibley next supplier to Formula 1).


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

I put the anti-dive kit on after the 200lb springs and Spax shock absorbers had been on for a couple of years - the improved effect of the anti-dive kit was still noticeable. Perhaps those that didn't notice an improvement had something else adversely affecting the car.

Right now my brakes are playing up somewhat which causes front wheel locking occasionally. I had the same problem a few years ago before the anti-dive kit went on and this time around the problem seems just as bad as before whereas with the lack of pitching at the front I would have expected it not to be so bad. Probably an example of how a car that isn't tip-top can misbehave despite all the uprated equipment.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>