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The problem I have is that one side of the rear brake pads seems to be wearing faster then the other. I am thinking that since the fluid has to go through one brake cylinder before it gets to the other that this causing the uneven wear.

With some of you going to disc brakes, then you might have gone to a T connector to replace the cross over line.

If you have, did you keep the thread size of the stock flex line coming in? Out of what car did your T connector come from?

Thank for your help.

Have bled from the driver's side, fluid appears not to have much discolorization. The shoes on the passenger side has less wear then the drivers. I still have the rear drumm brakes. Don't notice any pull one side or the other.

The real question here is what T connector has any one used in place of the cross over line?

Odd and others thanks for the information. I will source from a local shop the T connector you have pictured. I do have and extra rear line that I can use to make sure I have the correct thread pattern.

Peter, I guess it is an American thing, most all of our cars have separte lines going to each wheel with individual bleeders.

I do have new wheel cylinders but have not got to putting them on yet. Will source the T connector and new shoes and see what happens.

Thanks for all your advice,I will replace the inlet hose too and check for sticking parts on the rebuild.

Dale
1974 TR6
1977 TR7 FHC

Better first check the calipers, see if they are sticking.

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<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Reddragon</i>

The problem I have is that one side of the rear brake pads seems to be wearing faster then the other.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

which one? left or right?

is the car unstable on hard braking?
are you loosing brake fluid?

When was the last time the rear brake lines were bled. When I did mine the stuff that came out was not what you would call brake fluid anymore.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Reddragon</i>

The problem I have is that one side of the rear brake pads seems to be wearing faster then the other. I am thinking that since the fluid has to go through one brake cylinder before it gets to the other that this causing the uneven wear.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This is false logic and not the cause of your uneven brake wear. I would look for binding automatic adjuster or wheel cylinder, blocked crossover line.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Dale, are either, or both rear brakes getting hot, or warm, without
much, or any use.

I found with one of the cars the druns were getting hotter than
usual, due to the aging rubber hose deteriopating internally, &
restricting the return flow of brake fluid pressure, causing them to
drag.

When I changed to rear discs, on the 8, I simply went to the local
brake specialists, who either made, or had made for me, a new rear
hose which terminated in a metal block. This had a hole for a bolt
to mount it on the diff, & 2 places to fit a pipe end, one for each
side brakes.

This cost only about double the price of a simple replacement hose.
Such a specialists would be able to adapt your existing pipe to
suit, or make you a couple of new pipes,if you don't have the gear
to do it yourself.

Hasbeen

Pro primo: I don't think the piping design/routing have anything to do with your uneven brake shoe wear, it's just a hydraulic pipe and simply lets pressure
through it. Your problem is stuck or almost stuck adjuster parts in the rear brakes. It might be time for rebuilding the brake cylinders as well, but my bet is
the automatic adjuster pieces.

Pro secundo: You asked about redesigned piping.
I've done this on my 2.84:1 rear axle (without doing the disc brake folly!) and it was a simple thing:

I just got hold of all the parts needed at our local brake service guy. He sold me everything I needed
bar the sheet metal piece and the bolt/washer/nut combo needed. Everything still in the correct metric dimensions,
the piping is CuNiFe and thus both non-corrosive and easily bendable as copper but still non-hardening...

<font color="red"><b>My two 1980 Wedges...</b></font id="red">

Is the T-connector a late model thing? My rear brake line goes to the RH brake then a separate line connects from the RH all the way to the LH brake.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Is the T-connector a late model thing?
My rear brake line goes to the RH brake then a separate line connects from the RH all the way to the LH brake. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> No Wedge had a T-connector from the factory, they all had a meandering pipe and a single bleeder
nipple on one side only. The above fitment of T-connector and two separate (Speed)bleeders was an
improvement I built into the 2.84:1 axle myself...

<font color="red"><b>My two 1980 Wedges...</b></font id="red">

I did the same mod as Odd.
I used a T-fitting from an MGA.

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U