tr7triumph.com

Hi All, new to the forum, and looking at a 1980 TR7 2.0 (hardtop) thats for sale near to me, I just have some, probably daft, questions that I would love an answer to.
Whats a likely fuel consumption on that model of car, yes I know it will vary, but can anyone give me a ballpark mpg figure as I haven't got a clue?
Also I have been reading on here about the various problems and perks that come with TR7 ownership. I have no mechanical experience, but am willing to get the Haynes manual out and learn a bit about it, would you say a TR7 is only for the very experienced, with a degree in car electrics and their own welding kit? Are they fairly easy to work on for the general stuff?
And the last question (I promise!) is on the availability of parts/spares and any TR7 specialist mechanics in the country? Is it like, say, classic Minis, or Ford Capris, where there are plenty of parts and still some specialists dotted around, or are you more or less on your own when it comes to parts/servicing/repairs?
Thanks if you took the time to read this, and sorry if they seem daft questions, but would love some advice from the people here before I put my hand in my (fairly empty) wallet.

Hi there! Welcome to the forum and to the awesome world of TR7/8 ownership!!! [:D]

To answer your questions briefly,

Expect 28- 30 MPG from a well tuned and well maintained 2.0 litre FHC driven sensibly (but wheres the fun in that [:p] )

There are some tricky things on the TR7 mainly cylinder head and electrics but probably the most difficult is bodywork so the advice really is make sure you buy a nice sound one with minimal body issues. Apart from that everything can be learned especially with the help of this brilliant forum!!! They are simple beasts once you get to know them.

We have a good supply of parts and specialists and there isnt much you cant buy, most inexpensivlely relatively speaking. The big guns are:

S&S Preparations (Lancs) / Robsport (Herts) - great for all parts,new and used plus work, servicing and advice.
Rimmer Bros - parts - good mailorder and website service
TD Fitchett - parts
Abingdon Triumph @ MG - parts
Moss - parts, but pricey and minimal customer service

I'd also reccomend joiningg one of the clubs: TR Register or TR Drivers club and getting to know people in your area they are invlauable for advice.

I cant think of a better car to get parts and advice for to be honest - so go for it! You'll never look back [:D]


<b>2.0 Litre DHC Grinnall
Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)</b>

Hi, Welcome to the forum.

on my past experience.
mpg around suburbia - 20 - 24mpg
mpg 60 - 70mph such as motorway / dual carriageway - 30 - 33mpg

Partswise - virtually everyhing is available from Rimmers / Robsport and S&S Preparations. They all have websites. Noting on the cars is hightech so any garage should be able to sort things out, but you're talking carbs and points ignition, not fuel injection and ECU's so make sure the mechanics remember their way around these. The headlight lift mechanisms can baffle the best of them so make sure they work properly.

Remember the youngest of these cars is close to 30 years old now so check everything thoroughly. eg bodywork rust, the whole cooling system, rusting inside the fuel tank, heater leaks and many more. If you're asking about mpg it sounds like you're thinking of a 7 as an everyday car, which is quite a task for any 30 year old car that is unknown to you.....These cars are reliable so long as they aren't negelected

Otherwise read the various posts on this forum which highlight 7 issues.

Have fun


Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Two great honest and helpful answers so far, many thanks to both. Getting my thinking cap on now.

Just to add these are fairly easy cars to work on not too modern and not to old so there are many chioces to be had if you want to modernise.

I'm no mechanic but have learnt so much from tinkering here and there, and would say these have got to be of the easiest cars to work on,

As been said your going to get around 25 - 30ish mpg and lots of fun,

Rust can be a problem but nothing that can't be sorted but definetly get the best example you cah look especially at the turret top under the bonnet and rear traing arm on the rear suspension, sills and wheelarches are easy repairs by comparision..



[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

Thanks to you john as well, just rang the dealer and he described the bodywork condition as "horrible". I think that car is best left for someone with some more experience than I have! Still, its on ebay for £495 in Great Missenden, Bucks if anyone here is interested. Hasn't killed my enthusiasm though, the longer I wait, the more cash I will have to spend! The hunt continues....

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by zoso658</i>

just rang the dealer and he described the bodywork condition as "horrible". <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

He wasn't just being critical of the body shape, was he? [:D]

Getting a car with a sound body will save you thousands & possibly years of work. The electrics can be a challenge but mechanicals aren't much more complex than a Spitfire except for some aspects of the 2L motor. The main difference is the amount of plastic. Being me I would put in a plug for a V8 powered 7 just because they are more entertaining. MPG will drop to 22 though.

Welcome to the forum & good luck with the search.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

my advice from experience is pick up a sound FHC for probably around 1500... they are out there anything else you can sort cheaply with enthusiasm...



[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

paid 300 for mine which had been off the road for at least two years before i bought it, had rust in the usual places, ie everywhere and electrical gremlins, which it still has but am working my way through them slowly but surely, so glad i bought mine, oh and mine now has tax and mot but idles and cuts out so getting limited use til i sort it, but sort it i will, grown up tinkering with cars and these are old enough to be classed as old school, you can trace most probs with a manual, you dont need to plug them into a computer to be told whats wrong, and def fun to drive....


the project at birth, watch it evolve...I hope...

I paid $4,000 Cdn for my award winning Spider with 85,000 miles and $100 for my pretty much rust free 1979 DHC with 30,000 miles but needs paint, interior and a little welding on spare wheel well and a dime sized spot on B post.

Not a fan of getting a mechanic to work on any of my cars so I do my own stuff. It's a big part of the fun of owning these cars. Finding a mechanic may be problematic as even a "Triumph Specialist" has been known to screw them up. Nothing on these cars is difficult to work on unless you are mechanically challenged in which case I would point you towards the Honda Civic forum.[:o)]

Choose carefully, a rust free body is a big bonus unless you are a welding bodyman fan. 90% of the problems usually encountered are due to bad/dirty/corroded electrical connections as they are 30 years old and largely exposed to the elements.

If your willing to learn, this website will go a long way to pointing you in the right direction, if you have a fatter wallet and are close to a good mechanic that knows the TR7/Dolomite/Stag family then that can work too.

Better to spend more money on a better car than less figuring you are going cheaply get it up to snuff unless you enjoy working
on it as much as driving it (many of us do it that way).

If you do go the TR7 route you will have a car that turns heads except for the old school collector car snobs (but they are becoming more of a minority.)

Oh, and welcome to the forum.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

I think the best starting point for anyone thinking about a TR7 is David Knowles fantastic book 'Triumph TR7 The Untold Story'. It won't tell you what you need to know with regards to a purchase but it will educate you on why the car was the way it was.

With regards to what to look out for when buying a TR7 today I'd say don't worry too much about mechanicals just make sure you don't get a rot box. But I wouldn't buy a car that has been off the road for any length of time because getting things like brakes and electrics right again can drive you half mad.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/sales/codenamebullet.asp"]Buy the story of the Triumph TR7/8 on DVD here[/url]</b></center>