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POR-15 paint

Posted: 10 Sep 2009 17:45
by alanjarvis
I bought some (very expensive) POR-15 paint for some rusty areas inside the boot of my TR7 but I was too mean to buy the solvent to clean my brushes with, does anybody know what to clean them with? White Sprint? Cellulose thinners? rocket fuel?

The can has some scary instructions like if you let the paint dry on the bruch you can never get it off, and if you get paint in the rim of the tin you can never open it again! Also keep it in the fridge! Wife is going to be happy about that :)

Posted: 10 Sep 2009 18:02
by Marko
nitro solvent(paint thinner)?

brush costs 1$ throw it away? 1l of solvent costs around 3$

Posted: 10 Sep 2009 18:37
by FI Spyder
Use cheap brushes and throw them away. You're not painting door frames here. You can buy POR-15 thinner but it's very expensive, not sure of main solvent involved but regardless once the brushes are dry nothing short of a thermo nuclear blast will get it out.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Posted: 10 Sep 2009 19:00
by TR7Aaron
Also, don't get it on your skin or you get to wear it for a couple weeks. Get some cheap latex gloves when painting with it.

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)
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Posted: 10 Sep 2009 19:18
by Red
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TR7Aaron</i>

Also, don't get it on your skin or you get to wear it for a couple weeks. Get some cheap latex gloves when painting with it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I can vouch for that. [B)]

It's also true about the tins getting sealed up - one of the cans I got had a little bit on the rim when I got it. I had to open that tin with a pair of tinsnips, that lid wasn't coming off for anything!

As for the brushes, yeah, buy cheap ones then chuck them. I don't think anything except the POR solvent works - at least, nothing I tried did. It's not cheap either, so it's actually more cost effective to replace your brushes than to buy the solvent to clean them.

It's quite a forgiving paint as far as brush marks go - I painted my car with a value brush set (£2.49 for 5!), and it still looked fine.

Garry

1976 2.0 (soon to be 3.5!)FHC
http://reds-tr7.blogspot.com/

Posted: 10 Sep 2009 20:21
by UKPhilTR7
I must admit, I go to the local cheap shop and buy around five brushes for a few pounds and then when finished, I throw them away.

I have some on my arm from painting the weekend and sure it will be there for a week or two.

Image Image

Posted: 11 Sep 2009 11:37
by Dave Dyer
Hi,
Cellulose thinners will remove it from brushes, hands, it'll even remove semi dry por-15.
I like the throw the brush away idea. But don't put your brush in water to keep it soft like I did, it went rock solid in no time!!!

Dave

Posted: 11 Sep 2009 13:24
by john
Ah on the enviromental front just for a thought is it better to throw brushes away or use some sort of thinners and reuse the brushes hmmmmm

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry :-(
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John

Posted: 11 Sep 2009 16:36
by alanjarvis
Well I had a LOT of fun with my POR-15. I noticed the can said it should be stirred not shaken. Clearly James Bond won't be rust proofing his Aston Martin with POR-15. I had a devil of a job to get the lid off the unopenned tin! I spent about 10 mins cleaning the rim before I put the lid back on, but it may need the force of an exploding star to get it back off again. I used the vynil gloves but as the place I was painting was in an akward spot right up inside the boot I ended up with it all up my arm. Unusual tatoo? Now to ask the wife about storing it in the fridge...[B)]

Posted: 11 Sep 2009 16:40
by FI Spyder
Speaking of POR-15 hardening in the tin I found that scooping out some from the can with used tea candle tins (as suggested on the label) helps preserving contents until next use. Imagine that, me following directions on the label.[:)]

Laquer thinner (mostly toluene) is good to clean lid rims so they don't seal shut. It will thin it as well but the POR-15 will not cure and remain sticky but you can then spray paint over it (no need for a primer).

I was talking to a TR4 guy the other day and he mentioned someone he knows puts a screw in the bottom of the can and drains what he needs then put the screw back in to solve the problem of contaminating with old paint by using a brush in it then sealing it and getting paint out of the can to use. (no tea candle tins.) Haven't tried it yet but seems like a feasible idea.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
Image