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Help, I am yet to weld a panel to my FHC resto, trouble is I am not convinced on my door gaps, am I trying to get them too tight . Been at this about 2 weeks now on and off and it is getting to me now.

I have resorted to looking at the brochures, and some of the cars in there have bad gaps and alignment problems.

To ease my suffering and help me sleep at night could I get a idea of the gap on some of your cars at the front (door to wing) rear (door to rear 1/4) and door bottom to sill.

Even pictures of cars taken at shows etc would be of great help.

Thanks for any help

Well I've no useful pics to offer you, but the most crucial panel to aligh to is the rear quarter; this is fixed and it's position can't really be altered.

Is it a front wing you're fitting? If it is, you're in luck, as it's the fitment of this you'll adjust to get the door gaps right - you should be aiming for even/consistent gaps of between 3mm & 6mm. Get the gap at the rear quarter bang-on, then align the wing to suit. All this is obviously assuming your doors are good of course!

Hope this helps,

Dale


Austin A60 pickup
Triumph TR7
Yamaha SRX-6 (x2)
Suzuki GS500E
Ford Maverick
Fiat Idea

If I can paraphrase Hasbeen, it isn't a proper restoration if it doesn't have bad gaps. [:D]


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

Sorry, according to Peter not a proper restoration on my car [:p]









Or as Hasbeen stated

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

...Pitty about those door-shut-lines. You've just blown any chance you may have had in concourse competitions. No body is ever going to believe they were like that, when they left the factory<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

[:D]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Thanks for your help guys, Beans if I can get mine anywhere near the standard of yours I will be a very happy man.

cheers, Paul

Well think I have finally got gaps I am happy with and if I want to meet my deadline of painted by Xmas I best get my finger out.

I must also be losing my mind, I came on here asking for door gap references and totally forgot I own a second TR7 parked round at my mates garage so nipped round there to check that one out as well [:I][:I]

cheers, Paul

Hi everyone, i´m just about to adjust my re-skinned doors on my bare body shell (on a sort of castor wheels), and i´m concerned about the "flexibility" of the bodyshell. I´ve noticed a gap variation of almost 1mm at the rear top of the door depending at which point you jack up the car. I´ve refitted the suspension so the car is resting on its wheels. My question is mainly for Beans: Did you manage to complete your door gap adjustment without the engine fitted, as in your images, or is it imperative to refit the heavy lump for a proper alignment job?


<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Beans</i>

Sorry, according to Peter not a proper restoration on my car [:p]









Or as Hasbeen stated

[quote]<i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

...Pitty about those door-shut-lines. You've just blown any chance you may have had in concourse competitions. No body is ever going to believe they were like that, when they left the factory<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

[:D]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by yorkens</i>

... Did you manage to complete your door gap adjustment without the engine fitted ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes, after the welding was done they were taken of again for the paint preparations, to be refitted after painting, but before the engine went back in.
But than in my case no welding was required to any structural parts.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="2"><font color="red">My Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size2"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>