tr7triumph.com

Hello,

I just picked up my 1979 TR7 DHC today. It's a original owner, California Car, garaged most of it's life with 46k Miles. Everything is original including tires but it's missing the radio/climate control bezel and the clutch fluid dried up.

Now the fun starts...

<b><i>Now the fun starts...</i></b>


Ohhh yes.....

Welcome to Wedge ownership!

Maxwell [:D]

Welcome indeed, join the fun and get your spanners out [:D]

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Time is the enemy of many parts not only milage. Anything rubber will be affected, especially as it's from CA. (Mine is a Sacramento car garaged all it's life and just about everything rubber was shot.) Steering and front shock gaiters, rear trans mount, front and rear bump stops, only oil leak was from o ring in oil pump (brittle). Replace water, fuel, emission hoses. Rebuild clutch and brake master and slave cylinders making sure cylinders are not corroded. Same with rear brake cylinders. Seat diaphrams are probably shot making the seats overly soft. These are the main rubber parts. Good time to think aout replacing rubber suspension parts with poly. Foam liner parts in heater will likely have crumbled. While doing all this stuff excellent idea to clean all electrical contacts as this will be cause of most of your problems. Carbs will likely need rebuild. The car will be reliable but being a 30 year old car it will need this initial attention like any car would. The parts are not expensive but they tend to add up a bit. I did all this and more at one time, took a year, as I wanted it up to snuff before I got my "out of Country" safety check. It was fun. Hope I didn't scare ya.[:)] (We are here to help).







TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

Time is the enemy of many parts not only milage. Anything rubber will be affected, especially as it's from CA. (Mine is a Sacramento car garaged all it's life and just about everything rubber was shot.) Steering and front shock gaiters, rear trans mount, front and rear bump stops, only oil leak was from o ring in oil pump (brittle). Replace water, fuel, emission hoses. Rebuild clutch and brake master and slave cylinders making sure cylinders are not corroded. Same with rear brake cylinders. Seat diaphrams are probably shot making the seats overly soft. These are the main rubber parts. Good time to think aout replacing rubber suspension parts with poly. Foam liner parts in heater will likely have crumbled. While doing all this stuff excellent idea to clean all electrical contacts as this will be cause of most of your problems. Carbs will likely need rebuild. The car will be reliable but being a 30 year old car it will need this initial attention like any car would. The parts are not expensive but they tend to add up a bit. I did all this and more at one time, took a year, as I wanted it up to snuff before I got my "out of Country" safety check. It was fun. Hope I didn't scare ya.[:)] (We are here to help).







TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That didn't scare me. I spent an hour with my TR7 and here's my initial list of things to do to get the car running and ready for California smog.

1. buy/install new battery (yes, it actually started after a couple of tries).

2. Rebuild Clutch master Cylinder and flush the fluid (found a good write-up... thanks triumphtr7.com).

3. Replace Spark plug, spark plug wires, distributor cap/rotor.

4. Need to buy 4 new tires.

5. Buy a Service Manual (anyone has a PDF version of this).

Are the parts readily available at a local Parts Store (Pepboys, NAPA, autozone) or I need to hit the online stores?

Thanks in advance for the advice. I will take pics when my camera arrives from Canon this coming Tuesday.

Hi
WELCOME TO THE BEST TR7 / 8 FORUM IN THE WORLD EVER [8D]

One of our members 'JCLAY' has a simply excellent site for manuals and other info, i am sure he wont mind me posting a link [;)] really is one of the best, i have used it myself, and a credit to him.

http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html

Any answer you cant find on there, will be answered on here i am sure
Enjoy your 7 [8D]

Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

You can download the service manual from my down load site. Just click on the proper link below and download "TR7man.pdf"

jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by 79TR7-Free</i>

3. Replace Spark plug, spark plug wires, distributor cap/rotor.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

ad engine oil and oil filter if it was stationary for a long time.

Yes, welcome to the best asylum run by the inmates.

Just to encourage you even more, you will probably find the pistons
have rusted into the wheel cylinders, they were in 3 of mine. Still,
I've been able to hone the cylinders & fit new rubbers, with no
subsequent problems.

Have a look at the brake hoses too, they may also be original, & a
little tired.

You may need a bit of time on the spanners, but with that milage it
should be a great base to build a top car.

Have fun.

Hasbeen

Welcome aboard. Much good advise already on refurbusing the systems. Still childs play compared to dealing with a lot of rust. Congrats on scoring a good car. These things go for peanuts over here which is great if you are buying! [:D].

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Welcome wasn't it the beach boy's who sang "fun fun fun"

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

Till her daddy took the T-Bird away!

Jim Underwood
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Welcome,'79... Congrats on your new baby.[8D] Cheers, Scott

Welcome to the ward.. Your <b>to do</b>... list is a good start, however, if it has rubber in it is soon to fail. The heater control valve has a rubber diaphram and it will fail and squirt hot coolant on your leg[V] and wet the carpet. The replacement is available from Autozone or Kragens part no. ReadyAir 5864, Application is early 70s Volvo. A/C expansion valve ReadyAir 4680. Hope this helps.
Cliff[8D]

Don't use force, get a bigger hammer!!

Thanks for the warm welcome and encouragement. I've been browsing/reading about the TR7 and I'm learning more about these cars.

Thanks for link (jclay's site) and I think spent an hour just on this site. I went to the local Autozone Parts Store today and purchased the stuff I need for my wrenching this weekend. I hope I don't screw up the clutch slave cylinder rebuild.

Coming up in the near future, I'm looking into getting some suspension upgrades and newer style wheels. What's the widest wheel I can put in the rear?