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I'd like to raise the rear of my 7 1-2 inches to give my poor wheel arches a rest from being bashed by the tyres on the 15" rims. I'm hoping to avoid buying new springs so does anyone use spacers on their rear springs? Are they a good idea? Easy to fit? And is it a case of 1" spacer equals 1" lift?


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

The works TR7V8 rally cars used a combination of a lowered spring mount area and a variety of spacers to get the required ride height. I know Steve Thomas has some pictures and has done this to his works replica. They also extend the centering tube/mount so you can put in spacers and keep the spring centered too. Here is a picture of the arms modification.

With Spacers

I hope this helps?

Michael
1980 TR8 FHC/Works Rally Project

If it is broken then fix it....if it is not then make it faster!"

I've been talking with a mechanic friend about slightly raising the front of my TR8 by the spacer method. The previous owner installed lowered springs; the spring rate is perfect, but I'm bottoming out on fairly minor bumps. Are there any manufactured spacers available for the 8, similar to the ones for the TR6?

Ken
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

Ken-You might want to think about an adjustable lower spring perch, coil over setup.

Original Rally TR7V8 Strut Assembly (Left) Stock TR8 (Right)

It is common back in the day and with some SCCA ITS TR8 to use the stub axle and grind off the spring mount and then get a threaded collar with a weld on mounting ring. Woody Cooper @ The Wedge Shop has done this on his "Bad 8". It is pretty easy.

Michael
1980 TR8 FHC/Works Rally Project

If it is broken then fix it....if it is not then make it faster!"

Should be inexpensive enough to have alloy spacers machined up - but you would need to make sure they were fixed in place - and have a good location for the spring machined in the top surface. at the rear - there is obviously a lever arm effect - so 1" spacer will lift the car rather more than 1".

Go to your local chain auto parts store and buy a set of spring spacers/lift kit. There's two types that I know of - a solid metal type that twists in between the coils of the spring and a multi-part adjustable screw type that also goes between the coils and you tighten it to increase the spacing between the coils.
I've used both on a couple different cars and they work and are removable for when you change springs, cars, etc.
Shouldn't take you more than 1/2 to 1 hour to install both.
If they don't work, take them back to the store for a refund - no harm, no foul.


Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

[quote]<i>Originally posted by PeterTR7V8</i>

I'd like to raise the rear of my 7 1-2 inches to give my poor wheel arches a rest from being bashed by the tyres on the 15" rims. I'm hoping to avoid buying new springs so does anyone use spacers on their rear springs? Are they a good idea? Easy to fit? And is it a case of 1" spacer equals 1" lift?

Are your bump stops in place?-extend them an inch or so,- so they touch before the wheel arches do. Check out you local tow centre for spring assister products?[;)]

Enjoy& regards

Machining up some spacers looks like it might be the simplest route for front or rear, but I'll have to look at Woody's method, too. My gut instinct is to stay away from the universal clamp-on lift kit, but it might be a way to figure out how much I need to raise the car.

Ken
Anchorage, Alaska

1980 TR8, 1973 TR6, 1965 Volvo PV544, 1958 MGA, Jeep Cherokees

Ken-If you do use spacers you will need to make sure they are fixed or centered in place so they do not move around. The front should be easy but the rear you will need to do something on top of what the factory did.

On another note you can always have a threaded spring pearch made for the rear too. It is also simple where to cut off/remove the original mount and reuse it. Weld a threaded collar to the inside of the lower arm and weld a threaded rod to the mount which you can turn up or down to adjust the ride height with a lock nut so it won't move. I know Woody has replacement arms that have these on them that are tubular and much stronger and more rigid than stock. One is ready made and the other you can get someone to fabricate.

Michael
1980 TR8 FHC/Works Rally Project

If it is broken then fix it....if it is not then make it faster!"

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by V8Wedgehead</i>

On another note you can always have a threaded spring pearch made for the rear too. It is also simple where to cut off/remove the original mount and reuse it. Weld a threaded collar to the inside of the lower arm and weld a threaded rod to the mount which you can turn up or down to adjust the ride height with a lock nut so it won't move. I know Woody has replacement arms that have these on them that are tubular and much stronger and more rigid than stock. One is ready made and the other you can get someone to fabricate.
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I like this idea but I can't see the modded arm on Woody's website. I'll fling him an email but it will probably be cheaper to get one made locally. Thanks.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

Peter-I will see if I have some pictures of the rear arms somewhere.

Michael
1980 TR8 FHC/Works Rally Project

If it is broken then fix it....if it is not then make it faster!"