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Panhard Rod Modifications

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
Beans
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Postby Beans » 29 Jan 2009 20:41

With a slight delay (originally planned as a Christmas present), the new suspension set up for ‘t Kreng arrived today.
At least it looks pretty nice, can hardly wait to put it under the car ...

Image

To start with, the front springs are 60kg/cm (350lbf/in). Although they look rather flimsy the rear springs are 30kg/cm (175lbf/in).
But as these will be placed more or less on the axle, the effective spring rate is approximately 15% higher compared to the original location.
So they compare to 40kg/cm (220lbf/in) springs in the original location.
A few test drives will be needed to determine if these springs are up to the job [:D]

Image



<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

omichaelshar
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Postby omichaelshar » 29 Jan 2009 21:11

Looks very nice. The dampers adjustable at the top?

Assuming it works well, would the supplier be interested in doing a small production run?

Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 29 Jan 2009 21:39

Hiya.

Lovely looking bit of kit.

Shaun.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12691409@N08/

Beans
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Postby Beans » 30 Jan 2009 23:28

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by omichaelshar</i>

...The dampers adjustable at the top ... Assuming it works well, would the supplier be interested in doing a small production run?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Fronts are adjustable at the bottom ...

Image

Rears at the top ...

Image

AST now have the dimensions for the TR7 (I haven't fitted mine yet [8)]) You only have to sent them a pair of front struts to adapt. Oh and they are on the other side of the world, in the NL ...

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

omichaelshar
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Postby omichaelshar » 31 Jan 2009 06:26

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Beans</i>
... AST now have the dimensions for the TR7 (I haven't fitted mine yet [8)]) You only have to sent them a pair of front struts to adapt. Oh and they are on the other side of the world, in the NL ...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Beans,

I forward to hearing a report on the difference these make.

It would be a pleasant change to import from NL rather than US or UK.

Owen

Odd
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Postby Odd » 31 Jan 2009 10:49

There's been some earlier discussion regarding the SD1 rear axle back plate - and if it fits the Wedge rear axle.
Sure it does. They are in essence the same axle, so the bolt holes etc are in the same places.
I'm adapting one (mainly for the much better looks of cast aluminium as compared to a blasted/
hot zinc dipped/black powder coated pressed sheet metal original, (so this has nothing to do with
structural improvement) to replace the pressed sheet metal one on my 2.84+Quaife rear axle. As I said
- it's just for looks. (OK, aluminium don't rust with age, but zinc dipped and powder coated sheet steel
doesn't either.) Here's a picture of the SD1 plate with the Watt's link pivot pin freshly pressed out of it
- the depth of the hole is 26mm so it's a sturdy bit of alloy sitting there. I'm going to have the hole
welded up and then all of these reinforcements removed so I get a 'clean look' back plate. Should
look <u>real</u> good peeping out down there... [:D]

Image

Cobber
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Postby Cobber » 31 Jan 2009 11:04

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2">I'd be tempted to use the watts linkage pin for a watts linkage seeing as how a watts linkage offer superior axle location to a panhard rod.</font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

Beans
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Postby Beans » 09 Feb 2009 17:39

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by omichaelshar</i>

...I forward to hearing a report on the difference these make ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Keep an eye on my weblog [;)]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 09 Feb 2009 21:03

Beans, I'd be interested to know how much camber adjustment your new setup allows. My K-Mac camber kit gives me 1 3/4 deg negative out of the box but if I start cutting the sliding plate to allow more inboard movement there may be another 1 degree in it. Not much really. An adjustable length lower link might be the way to go.

************************************************************************
To do list:
Upholstery/Motor/Gearbox/Suspension/Brakes/Carb/Tyres../Gearbox/Paint/Cam+Motor
Done......./done./done....../done......../done../done/done/redone.../done/under way
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Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 10 Feb 2009 00:32

Some vehicles use an adjustable cam bolt at the lower link inboard pivot. My Dodge truck has that setup. Perhaps that would be another option. Would require some mods to the crossmember but the lower link could stay stock. Just some food for thought.

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Beans
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Postby Beans » 10 Feb 2009 06:10

I already have the front suspension at -2° (with zero toe in).
Achieved that by widening the track a bit with adjustable TCA's.
Will only use the camber plates to fine tune the front suspension settings

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

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