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Power vs. Fuel economy

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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 04 Jul 2009 22:26

For best power and economy - you want the highest possible volumetric AND barometric compression. So - highest possible CR pistons, and 'port' the head and inlet manifold/carbs to get the best cylinder filling, and best possible exhaust system for good cylinder emptying! Don't change the cam - fit SU carbs (if you don't already have them) and optimise the ignition timing 'map' to best match the new engine characteristics. The SU needles will need changing - this you can only really determine on a rolling road, although plug checks will give you an idea of what's required.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 04 Jul 2009 23:36

Don, You don't know if your head has been shaved, before you got the
car, or what your current ratio is, & although the best way to raise
compression is with pistons, I see your point, about a recent
rebuild. You could quite safely shave enough off the head to bring
it up to 9.5 to 1, so what I'd do is this.

With the engine out, with spark plugs removed, set the engine up,
with the spark plug holes the highest point of the combustion
chamber, in a way which allows you to turn the crankshaft.

Run a bit of oil down No1 cylinder ports, to help seal the valves, &
through the plug hole to seal the rings. Bring the thing to top dead
centre on No 1.

Get a pipette, filled with light oil, or water is OK, & fill No1
until it is full to the bottom of the plug hole. The amount you put
in is your combustion chamber volume. Best to measure it in cc with
our cars.

Divide your swept volume, [499.5 cc] by the combustion chamber
volume. For our purpose, this is your compression ratio. With this
ratio, you, or any GOOD machine shop can figure out how much to
shave off to give you 9.5 to one.

This has been done to most US spec 7s in OZ, with out problems with
heads, or gaskets.

You may have to replace your timing chain, & tensioner, if they are
old, & you may need a vernier cam sproket to get the valve timing
correct.

I would probably do a trial assembly with putty on the pistons, to
check the valves will not hit the pistons, but many have not
bothered. They may have been lucky.

Have fun with it.

Hasbeen

PS. you can just measure the volume of the head, on the bench, &
gestimate the volume of the area in the compressed head gasked. Add
the two for combustion chamcer volume, to come up with a "close
enough" figure.

H

Beans
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Postby Beans » 05 Jul 2009 00:27

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Don</i>

... Can you suggest an after-market FI? ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Any throttlebody that has the same mounting flanges as the Weber DCOE, like Jenvey, should do, together with a good control system.

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<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 05 Jul 2009 17:58

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Don</i>



FI Spyder - Does 93 octane burn ok at 9.5:1? What has happened to your Km/Liter (mpg for us in states)?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have a friend with 9.5 to 1, header, K&N filters, SU's on his Spitfire and he uses 93 octane fine. (We are at sea level here). He tuned SU's on dynamometer (rolling road) but had to sandpaper needles at one position to counter flat spot at certain RPM.

I don't have my 9.25 pistons installed yet. Don't think it will effect economy except with more power if you tend to use it milage will drop.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Beans
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Postby Beans » 05 Jul 2009 21:37

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Don</i>

... Does 93 octane burn ok at 9.5:1? ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
RON 93 ??? or some funny rating from over the Great Atlantic Pond [:p]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car currently being restored)
In parts a 1980 TR7 PI DHC, 1981 TR7 DHC, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 06 Jul 2009 01:15

We don't do RON here, it's (RON+MON)/2 deemed a more acurate rating in the real world. To convert to simple RON add 4 to 5 to the number. My Toyota 9 to 1 runs on 87. I feed my Integra 9 to 1 on 89(midgrade). Hi test is 91 and super high test is 94 available at Chevron stations only around here. If I'm leaving sea level and going up the mountains I go up one grade.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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