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Bonnets

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UKPhilTR7
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Bonnets

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 13 Jan 2010 13:44

Has anyone used, has experience of or is thinking of buying a fibreglass bonnet to replace their tired and rusty ones? I have a double budge and it is going in the in places and I am thinking of getting a fibreglass one to replace it as I do not want the problems of the one I get going like the old one.

Just wanted to know if the fibreglass ones were as bad as what I had heard?


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Beans
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Postby Beans » 13 Jan 2010 17:12

They indeed need a lot of work to get them in decent shape.
And fibreglass has a tendency to "sag" after some time, giving a rather uneven/scruffy look to the panel.

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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</b></i></center>

REPLIC8
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Postby REPLIC8 » 13 Jan 2010 17:59

Rimmers do a new early spec (single bulge) bonnet with the extra bulge worked into it. They look quite good in the picture, however the extra bulge is slighty shorter than the original design. I think the steel on the early bonnets was supposed to be thicker & less prone to rusting, so could be a good compromise. Not cheap however at £360!!

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8
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stricky
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Postby stricky » 13 Jan 2010 18:36

I've got an S&S double skinned jobbie replacement it's double buldge too, I was quite impressed to be honest. The bonnet hinges were supplied and the threaded inserts for the 'hooks' and bonnet catch were there also. However it appears to curl up a bit at the 'pointy ends' where it meets the windscreen and you need to cut out the fresh air ducts etc. If you need a pic let me know.



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'81 TR7 DHC
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Dave Dyer
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Postby Dave Dyer » 13 Jan 2010 18:37

Another down side of fibreglass is when its painted it paint might not match the rest of the car??

Dave

Beans
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Postby Beans » 13 Jan 2010 20:04

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Dyer</i>

Another down side of fibreglass is when its painted it paint might not match the rest of the car??<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That shouldn't be a problem if the paint preparations are properly done, using good quality primers ...

Image

As you can see, the spoiler matches the rest of the paint quite nicely [;)]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, currently being restored)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</b></i></center>

Marko
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Postby Marko » 13 Jan 2010 21:03

i worked a lot with composite materials ,

its all about the ingredients manufacturer used.

fiberglass, the name states the fibers used are glass fibers,

but the resin is the one that keeps it all together.
for automotive purposes people usually use el cheapo polyester resin that doesn't do well in higher temperatures, like ones found under the bonnet.

and the moisture swells the composites reducing its rigidity.

it all depends how was the part made, of what materials, does the resin have any addins as UV blockers, is the top coat made of gelcoat, and so on.


steel bonnet will last for decades , most of composite bonnets will start to lose its shape and looks in few years, it all depends on the way its made.

gaz
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Postby gaz » 13 Jan 2010 22:12

also i think our bonnets are made so that in the event of a head on collision they crumple up in front of the windscreen for saftey reasons
that alone should sway you

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!
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silverseven
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Postby silverseven » 14 Jan 2010 01:17

Having run a Ford bodyshop, I've had the opportunity in my shop where the owners of a couple of 5.0 Mustangs had decided instead of repairing hoods and decklids , to replace them with some fiberglass parts from reputable suppliers, and have come to the conclusion that 'glass panels are quite the "pita" to work with.....
The fitment to the car (i.e. gaps along the fender lines and latch adjustment) and in overall prep for painting were generally 1/3 to 1/2 longer than with standard sheet metal panels. Some of the interior finishing was also sub par compared to the steel parts they were replacing. I one owners case, the guy would have been much better off filling the trunk rack holes in his lid, than going through the trouble of replacing it with the fiberglass part!!!


I say if you don't want to pay for a new bonnet......find yourself a decent used panel, if you really don't want to fix the rust.

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