Sand blasting and priming

[staningrimsby]

Hi guys i do appologise if this is in the wrong area but its just a quick question for a bit of advice, i grit blasted a spare wheel well today to remove all traces of rust and paint.

My question is really what do i need to prime it with now, do i just use a standard high build primer or do i need to go for an etch primer, as this is my tomorrow job

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

POR 15 is generally recommended here.

[staningrimsby]

What is POR 15 if you dont mind me asking ???

im new to bodywork but want to do everything on my TR myself.

[Dave Dyer]

Hi,

Right POR 15 is the stuff to use, forget Hammerite/smoothrite , put POR15 on and you'll never need to worry about it again!!

Only trouble is, you can only get it mail order, so your 'tomorrow' job would have to wait!

You get here www.frost.co.uk

I and a lot of others on here really recommend it.

Cheers, Dave

[staningrimsby]

Thanx for that Dave, i will have a look on Frosts site, i presume you can topcoat over it.

When you have removed the impossible, the improbible how ever unlikely has to be the truth.

[Dave Dyer]

Hi Stan,

It comes in several colours and yes you can top coat it. Because it drys high gloss and you want to top coat it, the best way is, as it goes off and is still only slightly tacky, spray a coat of primer over it, then it'll take other paints on top of it.

Cheers, Dave

[macmattom]

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">You don't hang around, Stan [:)]. You only got the wheel-well today - hope it turns out okay. Any chance you can post a picture when it's finished? It'd be nice to see the it with a new lease of life.

Cheers,

Mac
</font id="blue"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

[staningrimsby]

No worries Mac of course i will, need to order this POR 15 now

When you have removed the impossible, the improbible how ever unlikely has to be the truth.

[RUDDY]

Most bodyshop professionals would recommend an acid etch primer to go directly onto bare metal, although it is nasty stuff.

cheers, Paul

[Beans]

2 pack epoxy primer after shot plasting

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

[Underdog]

Beans has my preferred method. I use PPG epoxy. No need for an etch primer on sandblasted metal. It's etched about as much as you can get with the sand. Just be sure to get all the sand & dust off. A trick I use is to spray down with cleaning solvent in one of those hand pump spray bottles and a blow off with compressed air. Wiping with cloths doesn't work too well on sandblasted metal as hundreds of pieces of lint will stick to the surface & make a mess of the finish.

I know the POR (Paint Over Rust) has a strong following. Honestly can't rate it as I've never used it. I try to stay with product from one company, in my case PPG.

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[Rblackadar]

If you go the POR15 route, I recommend using hteir Metal Ready spray first, and their Tie Coat Primer to top it off before using a finish coat. I like to use their products for their paint system only. I have tried using a different primer on top of their paint with crappy results so I'm sticking with their Tie Coat Primer....but that's just me.

[FI Spyder]

10-4. there product is not the usual stuff so you should stick to their line of products, Metal Ready, POR-15, and their primer. Then take your pick of paint.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra