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Gearlever gaiter refurbishment

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jeffremj
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Gearlever gaiter refurbishment

Postby jeffremj » 06 Sep 2008 19:01

As seems to be happening to most gaiters, the top finisher breaks off and then the fabric starts to split.

Whilst doing a quick change on my heater unit - in and out in 5 hours - I took the liberty of trying out what Vauxhall do on their gaiters (Zafira). Whilst the affect is not as polished as Vauxhall, here is the method I used. A bit of extra time may get better cosmetic results:

Image

Image

HowardB
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Postby HowardB » 06 Sep 2008 19:23

Good idea, cheap and simple. Will try it tomorrow.

jeffremj
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Postby jeffremj » 06 Sep 2008 20:23

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by HowardB</i>

Good idea, cheap and simple. Will try it tomorrow.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Another hour spent has given this result:

Image

Basically, gather all the loose stuff so it is only visible from the front. A halved grommet makes it look a bit better.

busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 07 Sep 2008 06:20

Hey Jeffremj,

I've got to rebuild my heater over the winter. I going to recondition a second hand item before dismantling the dashboard. Hopefully I'll minimise the downtime by doing this. 5 hours sounds good. What was the worst part of the job? I'm not looking forward to removing the steering wheel off its splines.

Cheers,


Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & Solid Bushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Green Stuff, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AllyCat 5 Spokes. No Door Stickers.

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 07 Sep 2008 10:18

Adam, there is nothing too hard about R & R a 7s dash, its just
slow, boring, & in some bits, fiddly.

Do use the chance to fit rubber strips between the bits of dash that
squeak, & rattle, & clean the electrical connectors.

Do pressure test your refurbished heater core before you fit it,
particularly if you have not used it yourself. A radiator shop will
test it for you.

Don't worry about getting that steering wheel off, its also easy. I
had a steering & suspension shop for quite a few years, & I'll let
you into the secret, quick, professional method, if you promise not
to tell anyone else.

1/Take a standard size hammer, & a 3/4", [or there about] drift,
preferably brass, but a bit of steel will do.

2/Loosen the wheel nut, & wind it up to the top of the shaft, so
the top of the nut, & the shaft are level. [This is to protect the
shaft thread, & the helper]. See 3/ below.

3/ Get a helper, [the reason for apprentices], to sit in the seat, &
pull the wheel up, firmly, but not too hard.

4/ Now place your drift on the top of the shaft, [& the nut] & give
it a sharp wack, [NOT BELT], with your hammer. DO NOT hit your
helper in the face with the hammer. You don't need that kind of big
swing, anyway.

After a tap or two, the wheel will pop up the column, to be stopped
by the nut. Remove the nut, & washer, & lift off the wheel.

It's much easier to do, than write about, or say.

Hasbeen

jeffremj
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Postby jeffremj » 07 Sep 2008 14:14

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I've got to rebuild my heater over the winter. I going to recondition a second hand item before dismantling the dashboard. Hopefully I'll minimise the downtime by doing this. 5 hours sounds good. What was the worst part of the job? I'm not looking forward to removing the steering wheel off its splines.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The first thing to note is that I have NEVER had to remove the steering wheel when removing/refitting the dashboard [***]. To make it more flexible, remove the instrument panel assembly; this also makes sure you have disconnected the speedo cable and the clock/speedo adjusting cables [B)]. Once everything is disconnected you will need to open the passenger door, as the dashboard comes back slightly and then out the door aperture and then fully out. The worst part is usually replacing the radio, but with a nice DIN cage, it was easy. Aligning the demist vents needs a certain amount of patience and dexterity. If the dash doesn't remove or refit, you have probably still got a cable/screw attached! Keep a note of all the different types of washer/screw - photograph them insitu with your phone etc.

With the heater out, make sure all the flaps work properly and that when you call for cold, there is no heat leakage - not nice in the summer. Make sure the air off flap fully closes.

[***]The last time I let someone remove my steering wheel, they used so much force that the steering rack pinion bearing was damaged! If you do feel the need to remove the steering wheel, check (before you try and remove it) that there is no fore/aft movement as this means the u/js or the rack bearing are already faulty. If you remove the wheel and cause fore/aft movement it is an MOT failure.

Beans
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Postby Beans » 07 Sep 2008 20:55

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>

... I'm not looking forward to removing the steering wheel off its splines ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That'll be the least of your worries ...
Some info on changing the heater in my weblog.

http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/2008/03/changing-heater-day-1.html
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/2008/03/changing-heater-day-2.html
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/2008/03/changing-heater-day-3-and-preparations.html

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

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