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Soda Blasting

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nlk11580
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Soda Blasting

Postby nlk11580 » 26 Nov 2007 14:53

Has anyone ever tried this? I've heard mixed things about it. I've heard that it is not nearly as evasive as sand blasting because it doesn't create nearly as much heat and will not warp the metal, it will also leave a protective film on the metal so you will not have to prime and paint right away. Though I've also heard that the soda will get into every nook and crany of the car and if not cleaned thoroughly the paint will not stick, or the soda will eventually bubble up to the surface and bleed out from under the paint. Any ideas on what the best (also cost effective) way to strip a car down to bear metal?

mb4tim
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Postby mb4tim » 26 Nov 2007 15:51

why not plastic bead or walnut shells instead. I've heard the same - good adn bad - about soda, it's a mess!

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com
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nlk11580
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Postby nlk11580 » 26 Nov 2007 20:00

I've heard of walnut shells before. I know they don't create as much heat so the worry about warping the metal isn't as bad. But do they pit the metal as bad as regular sand blasting?

mb4tim
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Postby mb4tim » 27 Nov 2007 02:52

When I had my MGB shell blasted, they used glass or plastic beads for paint removal, and grit (maybe glass bead, I don't know) where there was rot. But, they used the grit blast sparingly.

The panels didn't warp, and it came out paint free, for the most part. I was happy.

This was after the bead blasting - http://www.tgnagy.com/mgb/progressPages/200509.CFM.

It did scar up the factory filler, but nothing primer and some light sanding won't cure.

-Tim
http://www.morSpeedPerformance.com
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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 27 Nov 2007 05:30

Soda blasting is blasting with Borax crystals and usually used on thin metal like car bodies. The crystals break down upon hitting the surface so can only be used once. Not enough heat is produced to cause warping. It will take off paint but not rust so rust can be taken off with sand used sparingly so not too much heat is created. As Borax (a type of soap) disolves in water the part or body can be flushed with water to clean out any residual hiding in nooks and crannies. Of course the part/parts must be immediately dried so rust doesn't reform.

Underdog
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Postby Underdog » 27 Nov 2007 13:07

Spyder is correct. I had it done on some TR4 panels once and was happy with the results. As stated, it will not remove rust or etch the metal. It was a Godsend for the reverse sides of the bonnet & deck lid though. They couldn't be sandblasted because of warping and paint remover would have been a mess and difficult to get out from behind the reinforcement pieces. I found the residue easier to deal with than sand. Now there's a pain to clean up after. Just when you think you have it all, a few grains pop out right into the wet paint.

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