Anonymous

Quick update on this one. I decided to go for the clutch release/throwout bearing theory, so removed the gearbox in situ for a look. Got the box/bell housing on the bench, took off the bearing and it was very noisy and scored, with lots of evidence of heat build-up. Curious. Why had it happened? Tim...

Hi Alan and thanks for the info. The gearbox is the original one to the car and was working fine when removed. It was then stored for about 20 years, but checked over and the oil and seals replaced before re-fitting. Friction plate, yes, it is the right way round (I even took the bell housing off ag...

Hi folks I mentioned in a previous post that I have problems with the gearbox/clutch. At the time I was working on the water pump and cooling, so put the gearbox issue out of my mind. Sadly however I now have to turn my attention to it and would appreciate your advice. Here goes: - '77 2l FHC, 4 spe...

Thanks gents, very helpful.
John

Thanks Alan. I did see the Rimmers paint, but I find RB a bit hit & miss, somehow. Some products are first class, others iffy. But perhaps I'll give their paint a try (although I am not keen on the £7 or so shipping!).

John

Hi folks. Kind of feel like I am monopolising the forum! Anyway... Anyone have any recommendations for a decent UK supplier of touch up paint? There are lots of suppliers on Amazon, ebay etc but I would rather find one which comes recommended by a fellow enthusiast. Looking for CAD/Flamenco. Thanks ...

Thanks guys, really interesting. The point about using an extension is really useful, as that's what I have done (i.e. used an extension on some, but not on others). Having torqued my head, is it acceptable to "un-torque" it and effectively start again? And can the studs be re-used? Mine w...

That's the same sequence as in the Haynes Manual. It is the one I have been following - phew!
The only remaining question is about the torque settings - 50 lb/ft (as per the above) or 55 as per Roger Williams' book?


John

Yikes, that really does confuse things, doesn't it?! That's three different sequences for fitting the head.

John

Hi folks. Here's a quickie: I have been following the sequence in the Haynes Manual, however a graphic on this forum shows a completely different sequence - scroll towards the bottom. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr7-and-tr8-forum.3/potential-head-gasket-replacement.1262254/ Any thoughts? Thanks...

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and help. I'll see if I can track down some info on the sticky tacho, but the next job will be having a look at the clutch noise. For that, I'll report in another post so that the post title aligns.

Cheers

John

Thanks Cobber, great minds think alike. The distributor was loose (I always forget to tighten something up!), so I bolted it down properly. Gosh, I had forgotten how hard it is to get to the dizzy bolts. Anyway, after re-arranging the skin on my knuckles I re-set the points gap - gosh,I had forgotte...

Thanks Bushey, much appreciated. Definately the thing I have learned during this epic resto is not to jump to conclusions, and to follow a logical approach to fault-finding. Your advice is a perfect example of the logical approach! For example, I realise now the +12v on the coil is a fairly meaningl...

Hi Theo. Yes, it is a bit strange. I thought I knew the wiring loom inside out, so can't think of any wire that could have become dislodged. Three to the alternator, two on the coil (plus the body earth), and the flying lead to the tacho. That all agrees with the wiring diagram and to the best of my...

Hi folks, hope everyone is doing ok. I have a question relating to a problem with my ignition, which I will try to keep short: 1977 FHC, ACG series I recently refitted my alternator and after doing so the car wouldn't start (it started fine before). I noticed that the ignition light in the dash was ...